DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 116-11
DROPS design: Pattern no U-561

Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS KARISMA
500-550-650-700-750-850 g colour no 53, charcoal grey
100-100-150-150-150-150 g colour no 01, off-white

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) and DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) and DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 3.5 mm
- for rib.
DROPS Buffalo horn buttons, no 537:
7 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

BUTTONHOLES:
Make buttonholes on right front band. 1 buttonhole = cast off 6th st from mid front and cast on 1 new st on return row.
Make buttonholes when piece measures:
Size S: 7, 14, 21, 28, 35, 42 and 49 cm.
Size M: 9, 16, 23, 30, 37, 44 and 51 cm.
Size L: 5, 13, 21, 29, 37, 45 and 53 cm.
Size XL: 7, 15, 23, 31, 39, 47 and 55 cm.
Size XXL: 9, 17, 25, 33, 41, 49 and 57 cm.
Size XXXL: 5, 14, 23, 32, 41, 50 and 59 cm.
PATTERN: See diagram M.1 and M.2. Diagram shows the pattern from RS.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 250-278-310-338-370-398 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm with charcoal grey. Continue as follows from RS: 10 GARTER STS - see above, rib K2/P2 until 12 sts remain, finish with K2 and 10 garter sts. Continue in rib with 10 garter sts each side towards mid front (= front bands, worked in garter st throughout). When rib measures 4 cm work 1 row stocking st, AT THE SAME TIME dec 49-53-61-65-73-77 sts evenly (do not dec on front bands) = 201-225-249-273-297-321 sts. Change to circular needle size 4 mm and continue in stocking st with 10 garter sts each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 5 cm continue in PATTERN – see above – on next row from RS as follows: 10 garter sts, M.1 (= 6 sts) across the row until 11 sts remain, finish with first st of M.1 and 10 garter sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 7-9-5-7-9-5 cm make BUTTONHOLE on right front band – see above. After 1 vertical repeat of M.1 continue in charcoal grey. Insert 2 markers in piece, 55-61-67-73-79-85 sts in from each side (back piece = 91-103-115-127-139-151 sts). When piece measures 10 cm dec 1 st each side of both markers, and repeat the dec on every 8-9-9-10-10-11 cm a total of 3 times = 189-213-237-261-285-309 sts. When piece measures 28-29-30-31-31-32 cm work pattern on next row from RS as follows: 10 garter sts, M.2A (= 24 sts) a total of 7-8-9-10-11-12 times across the row, and finish with first st in M.2A and 10 garter sts. Continue in pattern like this. When piece measures 37-38-39-40-40-41 cm cast off 6 sts each side for armhole (= 3 sts each side of marker). Now complete each piece separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 79-91-103-115-127-139 sts. Continue in M.2A as before, AT THE SAME TIME cast off for armhole each side at the beg of every row: 2 sts 0-2-4-6-8-10 times and 1 st 0-1-2-3-4-5 times = 79-81-83-85-87-89 sts. When piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm cast off the middle 31-33-33-35-35-37 sts for neck and complete each shoulder separately. Cast off 1 st on neckline on next row = 23-23-24-24-25-25 sts left on shoulder. After 1 vertical repeat of M.2A complete piece in M.2D. Cast off when piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 49-55-61-67-73-79 sts. Continue in pattern as before, AT THE SAME TIME cast off for armhole at the side as described for back piece = 49-50-51-52-53-54 sts. When piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm slip 18-19-19-20-20-21 sts towards mid front on a stitch holder. Cast off to shape the neckline at the beg of every row from mid front: 2 sts 4 times = 23-23-24-24-25-25 sts left on shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Like left front piece, but mirrored. Remember BUTTONHOLES – see above!

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 60-60-68-68-68-68 sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm with charcoal grey. Work 1 round stocking st and continue in rib K2/P2. When rib measures 4 cm work 1 round stocking st AT THE SAME TIME dec 12-12-14-14-14-14 sts evenly= 48-48-54-54-54-54 sts. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm and insert a marker at beg of round. Continue in stocking st. When piece measures 5 cm continue in pattern on next round as follows: M.1 a total of 8-8-9-9-9-9 times across the round. After 1 vertical repeat of M.1 continue in stocking st in charcoal grey. When piece measures 6-6-8-8-6-8 cm inc 1 st each side of marker and repeat the inc on every 3-3-2-2-1.5-1 cm a total of 12-12-15-15-21-21 times = 72-72-84-84-96-96 sts. When piece measures 41-40-39-38-37-34 cm continue in pattern on next round as follows:
Size S/M: M.2A a total of 3-3 times.
Size L/XL: M.2B (= 5 sts), M.2A 3 times, M.2C (= 7 sts).
Size XXL/XXXL: M.2A a total of 4-4 times.
When piece measures 50-49-48-47-46-43 cm (less for the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder) cast off 6 sts mid under sleeve (= 3 sts each side of marker - adjust to body piece, i.e. the same row in pattern diagram) and complete sleeve back and forth on needle. After 1 vertical pattern repeat complete piece in M.2D for all sizes. AT THE SAME TIME cast off for sleeve cap each side at beg of every row: 2 sts 3-4-4-4-5-3 times, 1 st 1-2-4-6-6-14 times, then 2 sts each side until piece measures 56-57-57-58-58-58 cm, now cast off 3 sts 1 time each side, and cast off remaining sts. Piece measures approx 57-58-58-59-59-59 cm.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams. Set in sleeves. Sew on buttons.

NECKLINE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Pick up 102-106-106-110-110-114 sts (incl sts on stitch holders) round neckline on circular needle size 3.5 mm with charcoal grey. K 1 row from WS and continue as follows from RS: 10 garter sts, rib K2/P2 until 12 sts remain, finish with K2, 10 garter sts, AT THE SAME TIME inc 24 sts evenly on row (do not inc on front bands) = 126-130-130-134-134-138 sts. Continue in rib until neck measures 3 cm. Cast off with K over K and P over P.

Diagram

symbols = charcoal grey
symbols = off-white
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (26)

country flag Birgitte Kræhmer wrote:

Findes denne opskrift også til herrer

30.12.2023 - 11:26

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Birgitte, her ser du alle vores herreopskrifter med nordisk mønster: Herre - Nordisk mønster Du kan følge opskriften i den rigtige brystvidde og så følge målene fra en herreopskrift i samme kvalitet og strikkefasthed :)

03.01.2024 - 08:11

country flag Catherine wrote:

In size XL the stitching for the back armhole does not compute. If I cast off 2 stitches at the BEGINNING of each row 6 times, I have only reduced by 12 stitches, plus 3 more when I cast of 1 stitch at the BEGINNING of each row. I end up with 100 stitches on the needle, although the directions say I should have 85. Its only possible to get 85 stitches by casting off staches at BOTH ENDS OF EACH ROW. Can you confirm that this is correct?

16.04.2023 - 15:36

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Catherine, you cast off at the beginning of each row on each side 6 times, so in total you cast off 12 times (6 at the beginning of right side rows and 6 at the beginning of wrong side rows). So you cast off 24 stitches. The same with the next instructions: 1 stitch 3 times from the right side and 3 times from the wrong side, so 6 times. Therefore, you should have cast off 30 stitches; 115-30 = 85. Happy knitting!

16.04.2023 - 19:27

country flag Ingeborg wrote:

Goedendag, ik ga voor het eerst rondbreien. Als ik de panden verder apart moet breien, is dit dan met rechte pennen?

15.07.2021 - 12:58

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Ingeborg,

Het vest wordt heen en weer gebreid met een rondbreinaald, van middenvoor naar midden voor. Als je alle steken op rechte naalden zet wordt het erg proppen, zeker in de grotere maten, vandaar er een rondbreinaald geadviseerd wordt.

20.07.2021 - 15:50

country flag Rosema wrote:

Moet dit patroon ook op de averechts kant gebreid worden? Of is het op de rechte pen patroon breien en dan averechts pen overbreien.?

08.10.2019 - 18:13

country flag Marjorie Kemp wrote:

Continued The overall sleeve length was as specified but the sleeve cap was way too short and would never have matched the opening in the sweater body.

26.03.2017 - 23:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Kemp, after you cast off 6 sts mid under sleeve continue M.2A (and B, C see size), then work M.2D while casting off for sts on each side for sleeve cap. Happy knitting!

27.03.2017 - 09:58

country flag Marjorie Kemp wrote:

Continued After decreasing the 6 stitches I started on the next row doing 2 decreases on each side for the specified number of times and then 1 decrease each side for the number of rows indicated. Then on the next rows I deceased 2 stitches each side until the specified overall length was accomplished. I finished as the pattern said.

26.03.2017 - 23:05

country flag Marjorie Kemp wrote:

I tried that, as the directions seemed to specify, but as I said in my first post, following these steps netted a very short sleeve cap. Any further elucidation?

26.03.2017 - 23:04

country flag Marjorie Kemp Kemp wrote:

Having trouble with the directions on the sleeve cap. I decreased the 6 stitches then started the decreased but the cap ended up being too short. Then I tried doing the 6 stitches decrease and following with completing the chart pattern before doing the (10 rows plus) decreases. Then the cap was pretty long. And I'm not sure when to start the "then 2 stitches each side until piece measures (22-3/4"). Can you restate that part so it's more clear?

20.03.2017 - 04:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Kemp, after binding off the 6 sts mid under sleeve, continue back and forth (see pattern & diagram in written pattern) casting off at the beg of each row on each side: 2 sts 3-4-4-4-5-3 times, 1 st 1-2-4-6-6-14 times, then 2 sts each side until piece measures 56-57-57-58-58-58 cm, now cast off 3 sts 1 time each side, and cast off remaining sts. Sleeve should now measure approx. 57-59 cm (see size). Happy knitting!

20.03.2017 - 10:23

country flag Ruby Jones wrote:

On the decrease for the back piece for the armholes. The pattern clearly says at the BEGINING or each row 6 times! Which adds up to 12 stitches and then 1 st at the Beginning of a row 3 times. How do you get 24 sts decreased. how is this possible if we are only to decrease at the beginning of each row? Should I be decreasing 2 sts at each end and not just at the beginning of each row & pattern is wrong

08.10.2016 - 13:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Jones, in 4th size you have to cast off at the beg of every row on each side, ie at the beg of row both from RS and from WS: 2 sts 6 times (= 12 sts on each side) + 1 st 3 times (= 3 sts on each side). There were 115 sts - (12+3x2 sides) = 85 sts. Happy knitting!

10.10.2016 - 09:05

country flag åsa Westerberg wrote:

Hur förstår jag avmaskningen för ärmhålet på ärmen? På fram och bakstycket avmaskas det först 6 maskor och sedan ytterligare 30 maskor i ärmhålet På ärmen avmaskas först 6 maskor för ärmhålet och sedan stickar man utan avmaskningar rakt upp till avmaskningen för ärmkullen Betyder det att det inte är någon avmaskning motsvarande de 30 maskorna på fram och bakstyckena? Hälsningar Åsa Westerberg

09.02.2015 - 10:44

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Åsa, jo sist i ärm beskrivningen står det: Sedan avm för ärmkulle i början på v i varje sida så här: 2 m 3-4-4-4-5-3 ggr, 1 m 1-2-4-6-6-14 ggr, sedan avm 2 m i varje sida tills arb mäter 56-57-57-58-58-58 cm. Avm 3 m en gång i varje sida. Arb mäter nu ca 57-58-58-59-59-59 cm. Maska sedan av. Lycka till!

09.02.2015 - 11:14