DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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DROPS 115-13
DROPS design: Pattern no ME-015.

Size: One-size
Materials: DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE
Colour no 19, light grey/blue:
HAT: 150 g.
GLOVES: 100 g.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES for gloves and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) for hat size 3.5 mm - or size needed to get 22 sts x 30 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 for HAT and M.2, M.3 and M.4 for GLOVES. Diagram is seen from RS and shows 1 pattern repeat.
INCREASING TIP (apply to thumb on glove):
Inc each side of the 2 thumb sts by making 1 YO, on next round K YO into back of loop to avoid a hole. Now inc on each side of the 2 thumb sts + the sts already inc, P the next 2 inc sts each side, and then K the last 2 inc sts each side. NOTE: After 3 inc (thumb sts = P2, K4, P2) incorporate these 8 sts in M.3
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HAT: Worked in the round on circular needle.
Cast on 114 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Merino. K 1 round and then work 3 rounds as follows: * P2, K3, P1 *, repeat from *-*. Work next round as follows: * P2, K1, 1 YO, K2, 1 YO, P1 *, repeat from *-* = 152 sts. Now work next round as follows: * P2, K4, P2 *, repeat from *-* - K the YO’s from previous round into back of loop to avoid a hole. Continue in M.1a (= 19 repeats across the round). After M.1a there are 228 sts on needle. Continue in M.1b until piece measures 18 cm. On next round dec 1 st in all P-sections by P tog the last 2 sts in each P-section = 209 sts. Repeat the dec on every 3rd round a total of 7 times, but dec by P2 tog at the beg and at the end alternately of all P-sections = 95 sts on needle. Work 1 round with K over K and P over P, AT THE SAME TIME K2 tog on all sts on all cables = 57 sts. On next round K2 tog on all sts on all cables again = 38 sts = K1/P1 all the way round. Now K2 tog all the way round = 19 sts. Cut the thread and pull it through remaining sts, tighten and fasten. Hat measures approx 25 cm.
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RIGHT GLOVE: Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 48 sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm with Merino. Work rib as follows: P2,* K2, P4 *, repeat from *-*, and finish with K2 and P2.
When piece measures 10 cm work next round as follows: P2, * K2 in each of the next 2 sts, P4 *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, K2 in each of the next 2 sts, P2, * K3, K2 tog *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times, and finish with K4 = 52 sts on needle. Continue as follows: M.2 on the first 32 sts and stocking st on the last 20 sts. Insert a marker between the 2 first stocking sts (these 2 sts = thumb sts). 4 rounds after the rib inc 1 st each side of the 2 thumb sts – SEE INCREASING TIP! Repeat the inc on every 3rd round a total of 5 times = 12 thumb sts. When piece measures 16 cm slip the 12 thumb sts on a stitch holder, cast on 2 new sts behind these = 52 sts and work the 2 new sts in stocking st. Continue in pattern and stocking st as before until M.2 is completed - piece measures approx 19 cm in total.
Now keep the first 8 sts on needle, slip the next 40 sts on a stitch holder and keep the last 4 sts on needle.

LITTLE FINGER = 12 sts, cast on 1 new st towards the hand = 13 sts. Continue in M.4 on the 8 sts on top of finger and stocking st on the 5 sts under finger. When finger measures 6 cm K2 tog all the way round. Cut the thread and pull it through remaining sts, tighten and fasten.

HAND: Slip sts from stitch holder back on needle, pick up 3 sts towards little finger = 43 sts. Work 2 rounds with K over K and P over P.
Keep the 3 sts picked up towards little finger + 8 sts from upper hand and 5 sts from palm of hand on needle and slip the remaining 27 sts back on stitch holder.

RING FINGER = 16 sts, cast on 1 new st towards sts on stitch holder = 17 sts. Work M.4 on the 8 sts on top of finger (make sure pattern fits pattern on hand, i.e. 3 rounds stocking st between each cable-round) and stocking st on remaining sts. When finger measures 7.5 cm K2 tog all the way round. Cut the thread and pull it through remaining sts, tighten and fasten.

MIDDLE FINGER: Slip 8 sts from upper hand and 5 sts from palm of hand back on needle, pick up 3 sts towards ring finger and cast on 1 new st towards sts on stitch holder = 17 sts. Work M.3 on the 8 sts on top of finger and stocking st on remaining sts. When finger measures 8.5 cm K2 tog all the way round. Cut the thread and pull it through remaining sts, tighten and fasten.

INDEX FINGER: Slip the remaining 14 sts from stitch holder back on needle, pick up 3 sts towards middle finger = 17 sts. Work M.3 on the 8 sts on top of finger and stocking st on remaining sts. When finger measures 7 cm K2 og all the way round. Cut the thread and pull it through remaining sts, tighten and fasten.

THUMB: Slip thumb sts back on needle and pick up 5 sts in the edge behind thumb sts = 17 sts. Work M.3 on the middle 8 sts and stocking st on remaining sts. When thumb measures 6 cm K2 tog all the way round. Cut the thread and pull it through remaining sts, tighten and fasten.

LEFT GLOVE: Like right glove, but mirrored, i.e. inc for thumb gusset on each side of the last 2 stocking sts on round. Work M.4 on thumb instead of M.3.
Work little finger as follows: Slip the first 24 sts on stitch holder (= upper hand), keep the next 12 sts on needle and slip the last 16 sts on stitch holder (palm of hand).

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 11.09.2019
New diagram M.1a

Diagram

symbols = K
symbols = P
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P2, K2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K2, P2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K2, K2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K2, K2 from cable needle
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts, on next round K YO into back of loop to avoid a hole
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Fingerhandschuhe

Heike, Germany

Gloves with cables

Maria, Sweden

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Comments / Questions (32)

country flag Ursula wrote:

Ma ei saa aru,millisel real tuleb teha esimene kasvatus pöidlakiilu jaoks.(pärast 4 ringi soonikut kasvata 1s mõlemal pool 2 pöidlasilmust)Kus see 4 rida soonikut on?

10.09.2019 - 16:41

DROPS Design answered:

Tere Ursula! Kasvatamist pöidla jaoks alustatakse 4 ringi pärast soonikut. Head kudumist!

12.09.2019 - 14:01

country flag Mija wrote:

I don't understand with pattern - Drops 115-13 = M1a = Row 7 and Row 19. I think I write Row 7 is slip 2 sts on cable needle and hold at back, k2, then k2 from cable needle, p4, k2 but there is only left 2 stitches and same as on Row 19.

04.09.2019 - 00:21

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mija, to work the cable on 7th /19th row in M.1a, start this round 2 stitches before the beg of the round, make the cable with the last 2 sts on previous round + first 2 sts on next round, then work the last 2 sts in M.1a (= shown as K2 in diagram) tog with the first 2 sts next M.1a and so on. Happy knitting!

04.09.2019 - 09:18

country flag Marie wrote:

Hej igen, Jeg har læst udtagningstips, men det er den tekst jeg ikke forstår. Jeg forstår det med at tage ud med omslag, men det er teksten efter hvor den starter med "Videre tages der ud på ydersiden..." Hvor mange masker tages derud pr omgang? Tak for hurtig svar. Mvh. Marie

02.02.2015 - 15:17

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Marie. Du tager 1 m ud på hver side af de 2 tommelf-m (= 2 m per gang). I og med du tager ud kommer der flere masker paa hver side af tommelf-m, dvs, anden gang tager du ud paa hver side af de 2 tommelf-m + 1 ny maske paa hver side (= i alt 4) og derefter + 2, 3 osv indtil du har taget ud i alt 5 gange = 2 tommelf-m + 5 nye masker paa hver side = 12 m.

03.02.2015 - 15:24

country flag Marie wrote:

Hej, Jeg er gået igang med at strikke disse vanter, men kan simpelthen ikke forstå udtagning til tommelfingeren. Er det muligt i gider skære du ud i pap for mig? På forhånd tak. Mvh. Marie

01.02.2015 - 06:44

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Marie, Hvis du ser de 2 tommelfingermasker (med mærketråden imellem) som starten på en kile, tager ud på hver side af tommelfingermaskerne, så kilen bliver bredere og bredere, så forklarer vi øverst i opskriften (SE UDTAGNINGSTIPS) hvordan maskerne i kilen skal strikkes. Hver gang du tager ud til kile så tager du ud på ydersiden af de nye kilemasker. God fornøjelse!

02.02.2015 - 13:37

country flag Marion wrote:

Bonjour, Il semble qu'il manque une ligne dans la traduction en français de ce modèle : après la phrase "À 16 cm de hauteur totale, glisser en attente sur un arrêt de mailles les 12 m du pouce" : la version originale parle de monter ensuite 2 mailles afin de revenir à un total de 52 mailles. Faute de quoi on se retrouve, comme dans mon cas, avec seulement 50 mailles au moment de façonner les doigts, ce qui pose un problème. Cordialement.

06.11.2014 - 12:13

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marion, c'est tout à fait exact, le texte a été corrigé, merci. Bon tricot!

06.11.2014 - 14:05

country flag Sonja wrote:

Bij de handschoen staat opzetten 48 st 10cm breien. maar bij regel 4 en 5 staat dat je 3st re 2 re samen breien 4x herhalen hoe kom ik dan op een totaal van 52 st ?? hoe kan dat als je moet samen breien en niet moet meerderen? ik snap dit niet helemaal wie kan mij helpen

05.11.2014 - 11:51

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Sonja. Je moet 2 st in iedere van de volgende 2 st (dus meerderen). Er staat niet samen breien. Veel plezier

05.11.2014 - 14:03

country flag MC Cumps wrote:

Als ik M.2 met de handschoen op de foto vergelijk, heb ik de indruk dat het patroon op de foto 12 nld meer bevat dan de teltekening. Zou het kunnen dat de laatste 12 nld van M.2 nog eens herhaald moeten worden en M.2 dus uit 39 nld zou moeten bestaan ipv 27? Na M.2 zou het werk ongeveer 19 cm moeten meten, maar dat is bij mij nog lang niet het geval. Bovendien zit de duim naar mijn gevoel wat aan de hoge kant ten opzichte van de andere vingers.

25.02.2013 - 01:05

DROPS Design answered:

Het telpatroon is correct en klopt ook met de foto. Toevallig heb ik deze handschoenen zelf gebreid 3 jaar geleden en het patroon klopt. Controleer uw stekenverhouding in de hoogte als het werk niet lang genoeg wordt.

15.03.2013 - 08:16

country flag Ann Torill Solbakken wrote:

Ja jeg vet jo det. lånte disse fra forrige rapport også men oppskriften viser likevel 10 masker i denne runden. Hvis jeg skal følge oppskriften på rad nr 7 så blir hver rapport rundt hele runden på 10 masker. og det er det jeg har gjort. Skal det ikke være slik da ?

09.02.2011 - 11:46

country flag DROPS Design wrote:

Det blri ikke flere masker på 7. og 19 omg. De 2 første maskere blir "lånt" fra forige rapport).

09.02.2011 - 11:41

country flag Ann Torill Solbakken wrote:

Det er M1a. på lua. Etter rad nr sju i M1a er alt ødelagt. Det er frustrerende å sitte å se på at ingenting stemmer når det er så mye jobb med dette også. Det kunne vært morsomt men det er det ikke akkurat nå. I rad nr sju måtte jeg ta med 2 masker ekstra i mønsteret, altså 10 masker. Først 4 masker mønster, så 4 masker vrang så 2 masker rett. detter ødela alt.

09.02.2011 - 11:19