DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 0.90 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 2.70£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Baby 10-6
Jacket + scarf:
Size: 1/3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months - 2 – 3/4 years
Size in cm: 50/56 – 62/68 – 74/80 -86/92 – 98/104

Materials: DROPS Safran from Garnstudio
150-150-150 -150-200 g colour 17, white
DROPS circular needle and double pointed needle size 3 mm
DROPS crochet hook size 3 mm
DROPS white buttons, eg. Hares, 5-5-5-6-6 pcs

Shorts:
Size: 1/3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months - 2 years
Size in cm: 50/56 – 62/68 – 74/80 - 86/92

Materials: DROPS Safran from Garnstudio
100-100-100-100 g colour 17, white

DROPS circular needle size 2.5 mm and 3 mm

Elastic: approx 50-60 cm

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 0.90 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 2.70£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
JACKET:

Knitting tension: 24 sts x 32 rows on needles size 3 mm in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
Garter sts (back and forth): Knit all rows
Garter sts (on circular needle): K 1 round, P 1 round
Pattern: See diagram M.1. The diagram shows the pattern from the right side.
Buttonhole: Make buttonholes on right front band from RS as follows: cast off 3rd st from edge and make a yo over cast off st on the return row. Make buttonholes as follows:
Size 1/3 months: 3, 8, 13, 18 and 22.5 cm
Size 6/9 months: 4, 9, 14, 19 and 23.5 cm
Size 12/18 months: 4, 10, 16, 22 and 27.5 cm
Size 2 years: 3, 9, 15, 20, 25 and 30.5 cm
Size 3/4 years: 4, 10, 16, 22, 28 and 33.5 cm

Back and front piece: knit back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 127-141-155-169-183 sts (incl 4 edge sts each side = mid front, knitted in garter sts throughout) on needle size 3 mm and knit 4 rows garter sts. Continue in M.1. When piece measures 17-18-21-24-26 cm – adjust to whole repeat of pattern - knit next row as follows: 31-34-38-41-45 sts (= front piece), cast off 6 sts for armhole, knit 53-61-67-75-81 sts (= back piece), cast off 6 sts for armhole, and knit remaining 31-34-38-41-45 sts (= front piece). Now complete each piece separately.

Left front piece: = 31-34-38-41-45 sts. Cast off for armhole at side on every other row: 2 sts 1-1-2-1-2 times and 1 st 4-3-4-3-4 times = 25-29-30-36-37 sts. Continue in pattern, but do not knit the whole pattern towards neck and armhole if you cannot fit in a full repeat. When piece measures 23-24-28-31-34 cm put 7-7-8-8-9 sts mid front on a thread for neck and dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 2 sts 2-2-2-2-2 times and 1 st 3-3-4-4-5 times = 11-15-14-20-19 sts left on shoulder. Cast off remaining sts when piece measures approx 27-29-33-37-40 cm = adjust to a full pattern repeat.

Right front piece: Like left front piece, but mirrored. Remember buttonholes on front band.

Back piece: = 53-61-67-75-81 sts. Cast off for armhole each side as described for front piece = 41-51-51-65-65 sts. When piece measures 26-28-32-36-39 cm cast off the middle 17-19-21-23-25 sts for neck and dec 1 st towards neckline on next row = 11-15-14-20-19 sts left on each shoulder. Cast off remaining sts when piece measures approx 27-29-33-37-40 cm = adjust to front piece.

Sleeve: knitted round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 46-48-52-54-56 sts on needle size 3 mm. Knit 4 rounds in garter st and continue in stocking st. At the same time inc 2 sts mid under arm as follows:
Size 1/3, 6/9 and 12/18 months: when sleeve measures 3 cm = 48-50-54 sts.
Size 2 and 3/4 years: when piece measures 2 cm, 2-3 times on every 2 cm = 58-62 sts.
When piece measures 5-5-5-6-10 cm cast off 6-6-6-6-6 sts mid under arm and finish sleeve back and forth on needle. Cast off for sleeve cap each side on every other row: 2 sts 1-1-1-2-2 times, 1 st 6-6-7-5-5 times, 2 sts 1-1-1-2-2 times and 3 sts 1-1-1-1-1 time. Sleeve now measures approx 11-11-12-13-17 cm. Cast off remaining sts.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Set in sleeves. Pick up approx 55 to 65 sts round the neck (incl sts on thread) on needle size 3 mm. Knit 4 rows garter sts and cast off.
Crochet border: With crochet hook size 3 mm crochet as follows: 1 dc, *3 ch, 1 tr in third ch from the hook, skip 2 sts and 1 dc in next st*, repeat from *-* round the neckline and along bottom edges on jacket and sleeves.
Sew on buttons.

SCARF:

Cast on 3 sts on needle size 3 mm. Knit 2 rows garter sts and inc inside 1 edge st each side on second row = 5 sts. Continue in stocking sts with 1 edge st each side in garter sts, at the same time on every other row inc 1 st inside the garter st each side – inc by making a yo (creates a row of holes each side). Continue the inc until there are 71-77-81-87-91 sts on needle. Knit 4 rows garter st over all sts and cast off.

SHORTS:

Knitting tension: 24 sts x 32 rows on needles size 3 mm in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
Garter sts (back and forth): Knit all rows

Each leg is knitted back and forth on needle. They are then put on the same circular needle and the shorts are completed knitting round.

Right leg: Cast on 60-64-70-74 sts (incl 1 edge st each side) using needle size 2.5mm and knit 6 rows garter sts. Continue in stocking sts on needle size 3mm and when piece measures 2 cm inc 1 st each side a total of 6-7-8-9 times on 2nd and 3rd row alternately = 72-78-86-92. When piece measures 7-8-9-10 cm cast off 1 st each side (= edge st) and put the piece aside.

Left leg: Cast on and knit as right leg.

Shorts: Put both legs on the same circular needle size 3 mm = 140-152-168-180 sts.
Place a marker mid front and mid back. Work stocking stitch. After 2 rounds inc mid back at the same time as dec mid front.
Inc back as follows: 1 st on each side of the 2 center sts on every other row a total of 6 times.
Dec front as follows: 1 st on each side of the center 2 sts; 4-6-8-10 times on every row and then 10-10-10-10 times on every other row = 124-132-144-152 sts.
Dec like this before 2 center sts: K2 tog.
Dec like this after 2 center sts: slip 1 st, K1, psso.
When piece measures 23-24-27-29 cm dec 14-16-24-28 sts evenly distributed on round = 110-116-120-124 sts.
When piece measures 25-26-29-31 cm change to circular needle 2,5 mm. P 1 round (= folding edge), continue in stocking stitch for 1,5 cm, cast off.

Assembly: Sew seam on inside of legs within 1 edge st. Fold edge on top double towards WS and sew on. Pull a ribbon in suitable length through fold - measure on the child.

Diagram

symbols = knit from RS, purl from WS
symbols = K2 tog, 1 yo
symbols = 1 yo, slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso
symbols = 1 yo, slip 1 st as if to knit, K2 tog, psso, 1 yo

diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (63)

country flag Maika wrote:

Hola! No entiendo bien qué quiere decir colocar los puntos en un hilo al frente, ¿que parte sería la de la sisa o el escote? ¿Y que se hace con los puntos que están en el hilo? Me pueden indicar como debo seguir desde este momento: "Cuando la pieza mida 23-24-28-31-34 cm, colocar 7-7-8-8-9 pts al centro del frente en un hilo para el escote y dism para formar la línea del escote” Saludos

27.03.2024 - 18:49

country flag DAVAGNIER HELENE wrote:

Bonjour, je souhaiterais réaliser le gilet Verine ci-dessus en 3/4 ans. Le point fantaisie est donné pour 14 M. Vous donnez 183 M y compris les 4 M de chaque côté. Mais du coup je n'arrive pas à un multiples de 14 il me reste 7M. Comment se fait-il? De + à la 3ème ligne du point fantaisie , y a-t-il bien 3 mailles au point endroit au centre ? Avec une maille et ça ne donne pas l’effet du modèle. Merci beaucoup pour vos explications. Je vous souhaite une belle journée. Hélène

21.03.2024 - 09:18

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Davagnier, tricotez vos 183 mailles ainsi: 4 m de bordure, répétez 12 fois les 14 mailles de M.1 (= 12x14=168), tricotez les 7 premières mailles de M.1 (le motif est ainsi symétrique) et terminez par 4 mailles de bordure = 4+168+7+4=183. Notez que le diagramme se lit de bas en haut, le point ajouré comme ainsi au 5ème rang. Chaque diminution doit être compensée par 1 jeté - cf légende = le nombre de mailles va rester la même. Au 2ème rang du motif ajouré, on va bien avoir 3 mailles endroit entre les 2 jetés. Bon tricot!

21.03.2024 - 15:48

country flag Heidi Bollin wrote:

Ich bin eine geübte Strickerin. Dabei arbeite ich lieber mit einem YT Video. Mit der Beschreibung wie z.B. Verine Babyjacke, Tuch und Hose, komme ich überhaupt nicht zurecht. Kann man diese Anleitung besser beschreiben?

13.02.2024 - 14:56

country flag Elke wrote:

Ich habe schon viel von Ihren Anweisungen verarbeitet. Leider sind viele Beschreibungen sehr ungenau (besonders für Anfänger) beschrieben. Hoffe es wird sich ändern Gruß Elke

06.02.2023 - 20:53

country flag Isabel wrote:

¿Hay algun video o gráfico que explique la orilla a ganchillo? ¿A qué "ag" se refiere, y cual es el tercer punto, segun el orden en que se han tejido?

06.07.2022 - 10:19

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Isabel, se trabaja con una aguja de ganchillo (ag.). Puedes ver como trabajar la orilla de picot en el siguiente video: https://www.garnstudio.com/video.php?id=34&lang=es

09.07.2022 - 19:13

country flag BLANPAIN wrote:

Oups, erreur de lecture. Excusez-moi. Cordialement

14.05.2022 - 15:20

country flag BLANPAIN wrote:

Bonjour, Je confectionné ce modèle drops sur 141 mailles. Au moment de diviser les côtés et me dos vous précisez de laisser pour les côtés 2X34 et pour le dos 61 mailles Le total est égal à 129 et non 141. Pouvez-vous m'expliquer et me dire comment résoudre ce problème. Merci d'avance. Cordialement Mme Blanpain

14.05.2022 - 15:17

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Blanpain, je trouve bien 141 mailles: 34 m pour chaque devant + 61 mailles pour le dos + 2 x 6 mailles rabattues pour les emmanchures soit: 34+6+61+6+34=141. Bon tricot!

16.05.2022 - 08:19

country flag Alison wrote:

Could you please advise the correct chest measurements for each size. My 3 1/2 year old granddaughter has a 55 cm chest, my 18 month old 48 cm. The pattern says 98-104 and 74-80 respectively.

27.03.2022 - 09:48

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Alison, for a 55 cm chest, you would need a size 98-104 and for a 48 cm chest you would need a 74-80 size. Happy knitting!

27.03.2022 - 23:06

country flag B-M wrote:

Hej, planerar att sticka till 3/4 år. 183 maskor minus 8 kantmaskor = 175 maskor. Mönstret är på 14 m 175 m är ej delbart med 14. Hur gör man? Blir ju bara 7 maskor på sista rapporten. Blir inte hålmönstret ojämnt fördelat då?

22.03.2022 - 17:28

DROPS Design answered:

Hej. Nej det blir inte ojämnt fördelat, du stickar då diagrammet 12 hela gånger och sista gången blir det en halv rapport. Mvh DROPS Design

25.03.2022 - 14:44

country flag Dominick wrote:

Bonjour Je tricote le 18 mois et arrivée au 28 cm de ht totale vous dites de placer en attente 8 m pour l’encolure et rabattre ts les 2 rangs 2x2 et 4 x1 m, est-ce ces 8 m que je dois rabattre ? Mais il me reste ensuite 22 m pour l’épaule avec les 4 m de bordure . Et ensuite je tricote l’épaule jusqu’à 33 cm de ht totale et je rabats ttes les m Merci de votre réponse

18.02.2022 - 06:04

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Dominick, (avez-vous pensé à rabattre les mailels de l'emmanchure soit 2 x 2 m et 4 x 1 m? ) ces 8 mailles sont mises en attente pour l'encolure, et seront reprises plus tard pour le col, autrement dit, pour le devant gauche, au début d'un rang sur l'envers, tricotez ces 8 mailles et mettez-les en attente, terminez le rang, tournez et tricotez le rang suivant sur l'endroit. Puis, au début de chaque rang sur l'envers (= à partir de l'encolure), rabattez: 2 x 2 m et 4 x 1 m = il vous reste 14 m pour l'épaule. Rabattez ces 14 mailles quand le devant mesure 33 cm de hauteur totale à partir du rang de montage. Bon tricot!

18.02.2022 - 08:16