DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.00 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 102-11
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS Snow
500-550-600-650-700-800 g, clr. no. 01, off white

DROPS Pointed needles size 9 mm – or the size needed to obtain the correct knitting tension.
DROPS Pointed needles size 8 mm – for the belt
DROPS Crochet hook size 8 mm – for the crochet edge.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.00 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension: 10 sts x 22 rows in garter sts = 10 x 10 cm
Garter sts: Knit back and forth on all rows. Knitting tips: For every turn made in the middle of the work slip the first st, tighten the thread and knit back. This is done to avoid hole in the transitions.
Lobster stitches: Crochet as dc, but backwards. I.e. crochet from left towards the right.


Back piece: Remember the knitting tension! Cast on 34-38-42-46-54-58 sts with needle size 9 mm in Snow. P the first row from the WS. Continue with Rib as follows- from the RS: *P2,K2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with P2. When the piece measures 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm knit in garter sts until finish - see explanation above. When the piece measures 5 cm inc. 1 st each side on every 6-6-7-7-8-8 cm a total of 3 times = 40-44-48-52-60-64 sts. When the piece measures 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm cast off the outer most st each side = 38-42-46-50-58-62 sts. When the piece measures 25-26-27-28-29-30 cm inc. 1 st each side for the wide shoulder on every 3-3-4-4-5-5 cm a total of 3 times = 44-48-52-56-64-68 sts. When the piece measures 36-38-40-42-44-46 cm cast off the mid 12-14-14-16-16-16 sts for the neck. On the next row cast off 1 more sts towards the neck. At the same time when the piece measures 35-37-39-41-43-45 cm cast off for a slanting shoulder on every other row as follows - Beg at the outer part of the shoulder and cast off towards the neck: 5-6-6-7-9-9 sts 1 time, 5-5-6-6-7-8 sts 2 times. When all sts are cast off the piece measures approx. 38-40-42-44-46-48 cm.

Right front piece: Cast on 25-25-29-29-33-33 sts (incl. 5 front band sts) with needle size 9 mm in Snow. P the first row from the WS. Continue as follows – from the RS: 5 garter sts (front band), *P2, K2 *, repeat from *-*. On every 6 row knit 2 extra row over the front band – read knitting tips above. Continue this until finish. When the piece measures 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm adjust the number of sts to 22-24-26-28-32-34, (do not inc/dec in the front band) Continue to knit in garter sts until finish.
Please read all of the next section before knitting it!
When the piece measures 5 cm inc. as done for the back. At the same time inc. 1 st inside the outer most edge st mid front on every 6 rows a total of 8-8-9-9-10-10 times (Incorporate new sts into the front band – i.e. knit extra rows over these sts too). At the same time when the piece measures 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm cast off the outer most st at the side. When the piece 25-26-27-28-29-30 cm inc. for the wide shoulder as done for the back piece. After all inc. = 35-37-40-42-47-49 sts on row. When the piece measures 35-37-39-41-43-45 cm cast off for the slanting shoulder as done for the back piece = 20-21-22-23-24-24 sts left for the neck line. Continue with ”shorten rows” as follows - read knitting tips * Knit 2 rows over the outermost 10-10-11-11-12-12 sts towards mid front, 2 rows over all sts *, repeat from *-*. Knit until the neck line measures 6-7-7-8-8-8 cm at the shortest side and cast off.

Left front piece: Cast on and knit as right front but reverse.

Assembly: Sew the shoulder seams. Sew the side seams in the outer most part of the outer most st. Sew the front band tog. at the mid back and sew it to the neck line. Crochet edge: Crochet an edge with hook size 8mm around the opening of the vest and around the armholes as follows: 1 lobster st - see explanation above, * 3 ch, skip approx 1½ cm, 1 lobster st *, repeat from *-*.

Belt: Cast on loosely 8 sts with needle size 8 mm in Snow. Knit in garter sts, but P the first and the last st on each row. Knit until the belt measures approx. 130 cm. Cast off loosely.

Belt loop: Crochet 10 ch on hook size 8 mm. Crochet a total of 4 loops. Sew 2 loops to the front piece and 2 to the back piece just above the Rib. Pull the belt through the loops.

Diagram

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 102-11

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (25)

country flag Catherine wrote:

Bonjour, bonjour, je ne comprends pas cette partie, pouvez-vous m'aiguiller svp? "Tous les 6 rangs tricoter 2 rangs supplémentaires sur les m de la bordure uniquement" on doit tricoter 2 rangs avec les 5 mailles du bords et ensuite reprendre le reste? merci d'avance

19.07.2023 - 09:52

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Catherine, cette technique s'appelle les rangs raccourcis. Vous devez tricotez 5 mailles du bords, tourner l'ouvrage et tricotez 5 mailles du bords encore une fois. Ensuite vous tricotez comme avant. Regardez la video ICI. Bon tricot!

19.07.2023 - 11:33

country flag Tessa wrote:

Beste garnstudio, ik zou graag dit patroon maken, maar dan niet in ribbel-, maar in tricotsteek. Het breisel is dan dunner, is beter voor mijn lichaamsvorm. Kunt u inschatten of ik dan gewoon het patroon kan volgen, of dat ik dit moet aanpassen? Groetjes Tessa

31.08.2014 - 23:53

DROPS Design answered:

Het patroon is niet geschikt om zomaar in tricotsteek te breien, de randen zullen dan omkrullen. Door de ribbelsteek doen ze dat niet. Wij bieden ondersteuning op de patronen zoals onze designafdeling ze maakt, maar niet op persoonlijke aanpassingen. Het staat u uiteraard vrij om uw eigen aanpassingen te maken.

01.09.2014 - 18:12

country flag Magnon wrote:

Je viens pour la 1ère fois faire un de vos modèles, mais voilà les explications sont pas très clair pour les débutantes. Exemple : vous dites qu'il faut faire des augmentations à 4cm puis à 8cm x 3= déjà à 28 cm, donc expliquez moi comment faire 25 cm total ???!!! Cordialement Marie

17.03.2014 - 17:39

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Magnon, la 1ère augmentation se fait à 5 cm, la 2ème à 13 cm (+8 cm), et la 3ème à 21 cm. Bon tricot!

17.03.2014 - 18:49

country flag DROPS Design NL wrote:

Hoi José. Vereiste afmetingen = dwz, brei gewoon zo door totdat het vestje af is. Meerder vanaf een hoogte van 5 cm = dwz, vanaf de onderrand/begin van het werk. Gr. Tine

30.03.2009 - 09:07

country flag José wrote:

Ik ben een beginnende breister en moet dit volgens mij wel kunnen. In de 4e regel voor het achterpand wordt gezegd in ribbelsteek verder te breien TOT DE VEREISTE AFMETINGEN-ZIE BESCHRIJVING HIERBOVEN. Dat begrijp ik niet. Er wordt ook gezegd te meerderen op een hoogte van 5 cm. Van waaraf is deze 5 cm gemeten ??

29.03.2009 - 21:36

country flag DROPS / Lena wrote:

Remember to always use original yarn to assure to get the right tension and messaurements on your finished garment.

10.12.2007 - 16:06

Olga wrote:

Tried to knit it with thinner yarn but failed.

10.12.2007 - 14:25

country flag Isabel wrote:

Enhorabuena por su pagina y por sus modelos,ya era hora que hubiera una página bonita y modelos preciosos. Quisiera que me explicaran como hacer los delanteros del modelo 102-11 ¿hay que disminuir para el escote?¿como se aumenta el cuello? No lo entiendo en sus explicaciones. Muchisimas gracias

04.12.2007 - 10:09

country flag DROPS Design NL wrote:

Ik heb uw vraag voor een afmeting van voorpanden op de maattekening doorgestuurd aan de designafdeling in Noorwegen. Zij gaan dit verder behandelen. Succes verder ;o)

09.11.2007 - 18:45

country flag DROPS Design NL wrote:

Ik heb uw vraag voor een afmeting van voorpanden op de maattekening doorgestuurd aan de designafdeling in Noorwegen. Zij gaan dit verder behandelen. Succes verder ;o)

09.11.2007 - 18:44