DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 41.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Lasse

Set of knitted men's jumper with round yoke and Nordic pattern and striped scarf in DROPS Karisma or DROPS Merino Extra Fine

DROPS 85-21
DROPS 85-21
PULLOVER:
Sizes: 12/14 years - S/M - L - XL - XXL

Finished measurements:
Chest: 100-108-116-126-134 cm
[39-3/8" - 42.5" - 45-5/8" - 49-5/8" - 52.75"]
Hem: 88-96-104-114-122 cm
[34-5/8" - 37.75" - 41" - 44-7/8" - 48"]

Materials: DROPS KARISMA SUPERWASH from Garnstudio
600-700-800-850-950gr nr 01 natural
50-100-100-100-100 gr nr 55 light brown heather
50-50-50-50-50 gr nr 56 dark brown heather
50-50-50-50-50 gr nr 30 denim blue

Or use:
Materials: DROPS Merino Extra Fine from Garnstudio
600-700-800-850-950gr nr 01 natural
50-100-100-100-100 gr nr 07 light brown
50-50-50-50-50 gr nr 06 brown
50-50-50-50-50 gr nr 23 grey blue

DROPS 3 mm and 4 mm circular and double-pointed needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 41.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Gauge: 21 sts x 28 rows on larger needles in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm.

Rib: *K 4, P 4*, repeat from *-*.

Pattern: See the chart. The pattern is knit entirely in stockinette st, and is seen from the right side.
In M.2 one row in the chart is 2 rows in garter st.

Decreasing tip:
All decs are made on the right side. Dec 1 st as follows:
Before marker: K 2 tog.
After marker: Sl 1 as if to knit, K 1, psso.

Body: Cast on 184-200-224-240-256 sts on smaller circular needles with light brown heather Karisma or light brouwn Merino Extra Fine; join and place a marker at the join. Knit 2 rows stockinette st, change to natural and knit rib – see instructions above. When the piece measures 6-7-7-7-7 cm change to larger circular needles and stockinette st, adjusting (inc/dec) on the first row to 184-202-218-240-258 sts. Place a marker at each side (= 92-101-109-120-129 sts between markers).
When the piece measures 8-10-10-10-10 cm inc 1 st at each side of each markers every 3.5-5-5-5-5 cm a total of 7-6-6-6-6 times = 212-226-242-264-282 sts. When the piece measures 34-42-43-44-45 cm bind off 6 sts at each side for armhole (3 sts each side of each marker) = 100-107-115-126-135 sts on Body. Lay piece aside and knit the sleeves.

Sleeve: Cast on 56-56-56-64-64 sts on smaller double-pointed needles with light brown heather Karisma or light brown Merino Extra Fine; join and place a marker at the join. Knit 2 rows stockinette st, change to natural and rib. When the rib measures 8-10-10-10-10 cm change to larger double-pointed needles and stockinette st.
When the piece measures 10-14-12-14-14 cm inc 1 st each side of marker every 3-2-2-2-2 cm a total of 12-16-18-16-18 times = 80-88-92-96-100 sts. When the piece measures 45-47-49-49-51 cm bind off 3 sts each side of marker = 74-82-86-90-94 sts. Put sts on a st holder and knit second sleeve.

Yoke: Put in the sleeves on the same circular needles as Body where you bound off for armholes = 348-378-402-432-458 sts Put a marker in each transition between front, back and sleeves = 4 markers. Knit 0-1-0-1-0 rows before beginning shaping.
Dec every other row 5-7-9-10-12 times (see Decreasing tip above) = 308-322-330-352-362 sts. Knit 1 row, adjusting (inc/dec) to 308-319-330-352-363 sts. On the next row begin Pattern 1. When 5 rows of Pattern 1 remain, dec 14-14-15-16-16 sts by dec the same as before but every other repeat (that is, *K 2 tog, K 3* – in sizes S/M + XXL there will be 2 repeats without decs at end of row) – see that the decs are above the decs in the pattern. After last dec 126-131-135-144-149 sts remain on needles – finish Pattern 1. Then knit 1 row, decreasing evenly distributed to 80-96-96-104-104 sts.

Collar: Change to smaller double pointed needles and P 1 row, K 1 row, P 1 row and K 1 row, then knit rib – see that you get K 4 or P 4 precisely at center front. When the collar measures 10-12-12-14-14 cm bind off all sts in rib.

Assembly: Sew opening under the sleeve.


SCARF:

Measurements: approx. 22 x 150 cm

Materials: DROPS KARISMA SUPERWASH from Garnstudio
150 gr nr 01 natural
100 gr nr 55 light brown heather
100 gr nr 56 dark brown heather
50 gr nr 30 denim blue.

Or use:
Materials: DROPS merino Extra Fine from Garnstudio
150 gr nr 01 natural
100 gr nr 07 light brown
100 gr nr 06 brown
50 gr nr 23 grey blue.

DROPS 5 mm circular needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

Gauge: 19 sts x 38 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.

Pattern: See the chart for Pattern 2.
1 row of chart = 2 rows garter st.


Fringe: Make fringe at each side of scarf by leaving approx. 18-20 cm of yarn at each side with each row. Meaning, you cut the thread and start each row with a new strand.

Scarf: The scarf is knit lengthwise. Cast on 342 sts with natural and knit 2 rows garter st, decreasing 1 st every 6 sts on the 2nd row (K tog the 5th and 6th sts) = 285 sts. Then work garter st following Pattern 2 – make fringe, see instructions above. When the piece measures 22 cm (or to desired width), then knit 2 rows garter st with natural, increasing 1 st every 6 sts = 342 sts, bind off.

Fringe: Knot every 4 strands of yarn at each end together with a double knot at both sides of scarf.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 08.12.2016
SCARF:
Fringe: Make fringe at each side of scarf by leaving approx. 18-20 cm of yarn at each side with each row. Meaning, you cut the thread and start each row with a new strand.

Diagram

symbols = natural
symbols = light brown heather / light brown
symbols = dark brown heather / brown
symbols = denim blue / grey blue
symbols = K2 tog in the color you are using
symbols = 1 M.2 1 row in diagram = 2 K rows
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (49)

country flag Christine FLORET wrote:

Je ne comprends pas comment on peut tricoter droit avec des aiguilles circulaires sans fermer les rangs (modèle écharpe). Il faut 2 paires d'aiguilles circulaires ? Est-ce que l'écharpe se tricote uniquement à l'endroit ou endroit/ envers en tournant le tricot? Ou doit-on couper le fil à chaque rang ? Ce n'est pas du tout expliqué.

01.12.2023 - 17:49

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Floret, on utilise une aiguille circulaire pour l'écharpe pour avoir suffisamment de place pour y loger toutes les mailles, mais on va tricoter alternativement sur l'endroit et sur l'envers en tournant à la fin de chaque rang; dans cette vidéo, nous montrons par ex. comment tricoter du jersey ainsi, il vous suffira juste de tricoter tous les rangs à l'endroit pour l'écharpe. Retrouvez plus d'infos sur les aiguilles circulaires ici. Bon tricot!

04.12.2023 - 07:39

country flag Veronika Isemann wrote:

Hallo, ich habe den Pullover Lasse mit Merino Extra Fine gestrickt. Die Maschenprobe und die Maße sind korrekt und der Pullover ist sehr schön geworden

19.11.2023 - 11:43

country flag Veronika Isemann wrote:

Hallo, Ich habe diesen Pullover in Gr. L fertig gestrickt. Wie angegeben, hatte ich 800 g Wolle in Natur gekauft. Nun habe ich 200 g übrig. Da kann ja dann was nicht stimmen ?

15.11.2023 - 19:57

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Isemann, haben Sie Karisma oder Merino Extra Fine gestrickt? Wir hatten bis jetzt keine solche Hinweise gehabt.

16.11.2023 - 09:57

country flag Anette wrote:

Tak for hjælpen. Desværre havde jeg stillet spørgsmålet forkert. \\r\\nJeg forstod ikke hvad der kom efter de 11 masker.\\r\\nMen jeg er kommet frem til at der strikkes 6 masker grundfarve 1m mønsterfarve, 4 m grundfarve, derefter 6 masker grundfarve, 1 m mønsterfarve 4 m grundfarve 6 m grundfarve etc. Dvs at man starter med 6 grundfarve, men derefter strikkes 10 m grundfarve og 1 m mønsterfarve indtil slut. Er det ret forstået? Håber at mit spørgsmål giver mening.

10.10.2023 - 10:17

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anette, ja du vil altid få 10 masker grundfarve imellem hver maske med mønster farve på de 2 første omgange :)

17.10.2023 - 13:08

country flag Anette Foss wrote:

Drops 85-21 er jeg nu kommet til mønsteret. Når jeg kigger på dette starter det med 11 m grundfarve, derefter farve 2 med1 m, derefter 4 grundfarve i mønster skabelon, og så er mit spørgsmål: er det så fortsat 11m med grundfarve, hvor der vises 4 m grundfarve og mønsteret ikke viser mere! Altså 11 m grundfarve, 1 m farve 2. 11m grundfarve ect. omgangen ud? Håber I forstår mit spørgsmål!

29.09.2023 - 17:37

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Anette. Ikke helt sikker på om jeg har forstått spørsmålet ditt helt. Men diagram M.1 består av 11 masker og når du skal starte å strikke etter M.1, strikker du først 6 masker med hovedfargen, 1 maske med mønsterfarge og 4 masker med hovedfargen = 11 masker. Det er denne rapporten som gjentar seg omgangen rundt. mvh DROPS Design

09.10.2023 - 13:48

country flag Anette Foss wrote:

Hej jeg strikker Drops 85-21, og er snart færdig med rib på ryg/forstykke. Men forstår ikke "første pind efter ribben justeres med antal masker til (for mig 218m, jeg har 224m) betyder det at jeg skal tage ind og hvor henne eller hvad menes?

29.06.2023 - 17:20

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anette, ja efter ribben skifter du pind og på første retpind tager du 6 m ind jævnt fordelt på pinden så du har 218 masker :)

30.06.2023 - 09:06

country flag Ruth wrote:

Skal man, efter at have samlet alle dele, strikke med bundfarven mens man tager ind på hverandre omgang, og først her begynde på M1 ?

26.03.2022 - 09:29

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ruth, ja du strikker først alle stykkerne sammen med bundfarven og først når vi skriver "videre strikkes der og tages ind ifølge M.1 begynder du med diagrammet. God fornøjelse!

30.03.2022 - 14:27

country flag Kirsten wrote:

Hej Er det korrekt at det kun er rib på ærmer og bluse der har lys brun kant, og ikke rib på halsen? Mvh. Kirsten

08.02.2022 - 20:10

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Kirsten, jo ifølge opskriften strikkes halsen også i rib 4ret, 4vrang men den lille bruge kant har du kun på ærmerne og nederst på blusen :)

09.02.2022 - 10:24

country flag Annelie Rosander wrote:

Hej! Vad kan ni rekommendera för alternativt garn? Han jag ska sticka tröjan till tycker att Karisma drops är för varmt garn, även om det är mjukt och skönt.

21.12.2021 - 14:30

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Annelie. Denne genseren er strikket i DROPS Karisma og ønsker du å strikke denne modellen er det Karisma tykkelse du må bruke (Garngruppe B). I stedenfor DROPS Karisma kan du evnt bruke DROPS Cotton Merion, et herlig mykt garn, 50% ull og 50% bomull. Kanskje det vil passe bedre? Ellers så kan du ta en titt på herre oppskrifter som er strikket i garngruppe A (som er tynnere enn garn i garngruppe B). mvh DROPS Design

21.12.2021 - 14:43

country flag Marliese Dexheimer wrote:

Modell Drops 85-21 „Lasse“: Warum soll beim Hals zuerst 1 Runde links, 1 Runde rechts, 1 Runde links, 1 Runde rechts gestrickt werden?

26.03.2021 - 11:35

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Dexheimer, so hat man 2 schöne Krausrippen zwischen Passe und Halsblende/Kragen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

26.03.2021 - 12:09