DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 47-6
JUMPER:
Size: Ladies: S – M – L. Men: S/M – M/L

Materials: DROPS Karisma Superwash from Garnstudio
400-450-450 (500-600) g colour no 01, off-white
300-350-400 (450-500) g colour no 16, grey

DROPS circular and double pointed needles size 2.5 and 3.5 mm

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
JUMPER:

Knitting tension: 21 sts x 28 rows on needle size 3.5 mm in pattern = 10 x 10 cm.
Rib: *K2, P2*, repeat from *-*.
Edge: K 3 cm stocking sts, P 1 row (= folding edge), K 3 cm stocking sts.
Pattern: See diagrams M1-M.10. The diagrams are seen from the RS.
Dame = Lady
Herre = Men

Back and front piece:
The jumper is knitted round on circular needles and cut for armholes and neck split afterwards. Numbers in ( ) refer to men’s sizes. Cast on 188-192-200 (200-208) sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm with off-white knit 6 cm Rib. Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm and knit M.1, at the same time inc 52-60-64 (52-56) sts evenly on 1st row = 240-252-264 (252-264) sts. After M.1 knit M.2 – beg by arrow for appropriate size and knit M.2 over front piece = 120-126-132 (126-132) sts, beg at appropriate arrow again and knit M.2 over back piece = 120-126-132 (126-132) sts. Remember the knitting tension. At the same time when piece measures 36-36-43 (35-42) cm inc 5 sts each side (to be cut for armholes afterwards, do not incorporate these sts in pattern but knit them in stocking sts). When piece measures 44-44-52 (43-51) cm cast off the middle 12 sts at front for neck split. On next round cast on 5 new sts over the cast off sts (to be cut for front split afterwards, do not incorporate these sts in pattern but knit them in stocking sts). When piece measures 52-52-60 (52-60) cm (adjust to after 1 full or 1 half star in M.2), knit M.3. At the same time when piece measures 58-58-66 (57-65) cm cast off the middle 14-16-16 (16-20) sts + 5 sts for cutting at front and finish the piece back and forth on needle. Dec to shape the neckline each side on every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2 times. At the same time when piece measures 61-61-69 (61-69) cm cast off the middle 36-38-38 (38-42) sts mid back for neck and dec 2 sts each side on next row. After M.3 knit 1 row in grey. Cast off when piece measures 63-63-71 (63-71) cm.

Sleeves:
Cast on 48-48-52 (52-56) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with off-white and knit 5 cm Rib, inc 6-8-4 (4-2) sts evenly on the last round = 54-56-56 (56-58) sts. Change to needle size 3.5 mm and knit M.1 and then M.4 until finished measurements. At the same time, after the Rib inc 2 sts mid under arm 30-29-31 (31-32) times as follows: Ladies size S and M + men’s size S/M and M/L: on every 3rd and 4th round alternately, ladies size L: on every 3rd round = 114-114-118 (118-122) sts.
When piece measures 46-46-45 (51-51) cm put 4 sts mid under arm on a thread or a stitch holder and continue back and forth on needle, at the same time, to shape sleeve cap, put the first 12-12-12 (12-13) sts on every row (after knitting them) on the thread or stitch holder a total of 3 times each side.
When these 6 rows are knitted put all sts back on needle again and knit in the round for 2 cm in reverse stocking sts = edge for sewing on sleeve to body pieces.
Cast off and knit the other sleeve.

Assembly: Insert a marking thread in the middle of the inc sts for armhole each side and mid front of body piece. Make 2 seams each side and mid front using your sewing machine, the first seam ½ st from the MT and the other one ½ st from the first one. Cut the piece between these. Sew shoulder seams.
Edge round the front split: Pick up approx 20 to 30 sts along the left side of neck split on needle size 2.5 mm with grey and knit edge – see above. Repeat along the right side. Fold edges towards the WS and attach. Sew the edges at bottom from RS with neat mattress sts.
Neckline: Pick up approx 106 to 116 sts round the neck on circular needle size 2.5 mm with grey and knit 2.5 cm stocking sts, change to off-white and K 1 row, P 1 row (= folding edge). Change back to grey and knit 2.5 cm in stocking sts. Cast off. Fold the edge double towards the Ws and attach.
Set in sleeves from the RS as follows: sew in the last row before the edge in stocking sts on sleeves to the first row after the seam in the sts for cutting on body pieces. Turn the jumper inside out and sew the piece in stocking sts over the cutting edge on body pieces.

MITTENS:
Size: One size ladies (men)

Materials: DROPS Karisma Superwash from Garnstudio
100 (100) g colour no 16, grey
50 (50) g colour no 01, off-white

DROPS double pointed needles size 3 mm

Knitting tension: 22 sts x 30 rows on needle size 3 mm in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm.

Rib: *K2, P2*, repeat from *-*.

Pattern: See diagrams M1-M.10. The diagrams are seen from the RS.

GLOVE
Cast on 48 (56) sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm with grey and knit 3 cm in stocking sts. Knit next round as follows: *K2 tog, make a yo*, repeat from *-*. Knit another 3 cm in stocking sts. This edge is folded double towards the WS afterwards. Continue in M.6, at the same time dec 4 (4) sts evenly on the first round = 44 (52) sts – make sure to have a star on top of hand. After M.6 knit next round as follows: M.8, 17 (21) sts of M.10, M.8, 17 (21) sts of M.9 (M.10 = upper hand). Insert a marking thread in the transition between M.9 and M.10 for thumb. When piece measures 1 cm from MT inc 1 st on each side of MT on every 3rd round a total of 6 times = 56 (64) sts – incorporate the inc sts in M.9 as you go along. When piece measures 6.5 (7) cm from MT put the middle 13 (13) sts over the thumb on a thread and cast on 1 st over sts on thread on next round = 44 (52) sts. Continue in pattern until piece measures 17 (18) cm from MT. Now dec 1 st on each side of M.8 on every round (4 dec per round) a total of 10 (11) times. Cut the thread and pull through remaining sts. Sew tight.
Thumb: Pick up a total of 17 (21) sts round the thumb and knit 6.5 cm of M.9. Now knit all sts tog 2 by 2 and cut the thread. Pull through remaining sts and sew tight.


SOCKS:
Size: 38-41 (41-44)

Materials: DROPS Karisma Superwash from Garnstudio
200 (250) g colour no 16, grey
100 (100) g colour no 01, off-white

DROPS double pointed needles size 3 mm

Knitting tension: 22 sts x 30 rows on needle size 3 mm in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm.

Rib: *K2, P2*, repeat from *-*.

Heel decreases:
1st row (RS): knit until there are 8 (9) sts left, slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso, turn
2nd row: (WS): purl until there are 8 (9) sts left, slip 1 st as if to purl, P1, psso, turn
3rd row: knit until there are 7 (8) sts left, slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso, turn
4th row: purl until there are 7 (8) sts left, slip 1 st as if to purl, P1, psso, turn
5th row: knit until there are 6 (7) sts left, slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso, turn
6th row: purl until there are 6 (7) sts left, slip 1 st as if to purl, P1, psso, turn
7th row: knit until there are 5 (6) sts left, slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso, turn
8th row: purl until there are 5 (6) sts left, slip 1 st as if to purl, P1, psso, turn
Continue like this until there are 12 (14) sts left on needle.

SOCK
Cast on 68 (76) sts on double pointed needles size 3 with grey and knit 13 (16) cm Rib, at the same time inc 2 (4) sts evenly on the first round = 70 (80) sts. Knit M.5. After M5. knit next row as follows: M.7 over 65 (75) sts – make sure there’s a star mid front – and M.8 over the remaining 5 sts (M.8 = mid back). Continue in pattern like this. When piece measures 29 (32) cm shape as follows: K tog the first 2 sts of M.7 and K tog the last 2 sts of M.7 into back of sts on every 4th row a total of 11 (14) times = 48 (52) sts. When piece measures 50 (56) cm put the middle 24 (26) sts at front on a thread and knit the heel over the remaining 24 (26) sts: knit 1 row in grey and 5 (6) cm of M.11. Now dec for heel as described above. After the dec pick up 12 (13) sts on each side of the heel and put all sts back on needles = 60 (66) sts. Continue in M.7 over the upper 24 (25) sts with 1 grey st each side, knit the remaining sts in M.11. Dec as follows: Knit tog the first 2 sts and the last 2 sts of M.11 on every other round a total of 6 times = 48 (54) sts. When foot measures 19 (21.5) cm from the heel knit 1 round in grey and finish the sock in M.11 (continue to have 1 grey st each side). Dec for toe on each side of the grey sts as follows: Knit tog the 2 sts before the grey st and knit tog the 2 sts after the grey st into back of st on every other round 3 times and on every round 7 (9) times = 8 (6) sts left. Cut the thread and pull through remaining sts. Sew tight.

Diagram

symbols = off-white
symbols = grey
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (35)

country flag Willy Van Ommen wrote:

Graag zou ik dit patroon aanpassen en breien voor maat XL. Heeft u tips daarvoor!

10.12.2023 - 17:16

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Willy,

Op basis van de stekenverhouding zou je om kunnen rekenen hoeveel steken je op moet zetten om jouw gewenste afmetingen te krijgen. Houd ook rekening met hoe je het ingebreide patroon verdeelt over de steken.

17.12.2023 - 17:50

country flag Mogens Hedetoft Kristiansen wrote:

Jeg mangler forklaring på udtagning i på ærme i trøjen. Jeg strikker at. L 47-6 Med venlig hilsen Mogens

21.11.2021 - 08:38

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Mogens. I storlek L dam tages der ud 2 m midt under ærmet på hver 3. omg totalt 31 ganger. Mvh DROPS Design

23.11.2021 - 08:55

country flag Mogens Hedetoft Kristiansen wrote:

Jeg har problemer med at strikke udtagninger på ærmet til trøje på 47-6 hej strikker størrelse L Start med 52 m og efterfølgende udtagninger i mønster gør at mønstret ikke passer sammen under ærmet? er der en god måde at gøre det på?\r\nMed venlig hilsen\r\nMogens

18.11.2021 - 13:00

country flag Gerda wrote:

Jeg strikker trøjen i størrelse ML herre 47-6 Jeg kan selvfølgelig strikke udtagningerne før mønstret begynder, så jeg starter mønstret med 60 masker. Vil dog gerne gøre det korrekt. Med venlig hilsen

15.11.2021 - 12:18

country flag Gerda Og Mogens Hedetoft Kristiansen wrote:

Mønster diagram M1 giver problemer. Der er 12 m på mønstret, og 56 m masker på omgangen. Skal de 8 masker der er tilbage efter 4x12 m blot strikkes uden mønster? eller der der en anden måde at gøre det på? På forhånd tak for svaret

13.11.2021 - 11:32

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Gerda. Strikker du erme til genseren eller vottene, og hvilken str. strikker du? Mvh DROSP Design

15.11.2021 - 11:10

country flag Irene wrote:

Jag hittar inte M1.... Det finns inget mönster med nummer 1 i denna beskrivning - eller är jag helt borta 🙈

17.04.2021 - 22:28

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Irene. Om du ser diagram M.3, ser du også diagram M.1. Det er samme diagram, men A.1 er hele diagramme, mens A.3 er kun "halvparten". A.3 står på venstre side og A.1 på høyre siden av diagrammet. mvh DROPS design

19.04.2021 - 10:43

country flag Aud-Åse Mjølsnes wrote:

Sissel Fjeldvær har 07.12.15 kommentert at der er en feil i mønsteret. Jeg lurer på om mønsteret er rettet opp?

24.11.2020 - 12:40

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Aud-Åse. S.F`s kommentar fra 2015 er lagt inn som en kommentar, ikke som et spørsmål, slik at det da ikke er blitt besvart. Når man ser på diagram M.1, kan vi ikke se at det er en maske som er blitt forskjøvet, slik at det blir feil med en stjerne. Dette er en gammel oppskrift, slik at om det har vært en feil, ville vi nok ha fått flere tilbakemeldinger. mvh DROPS design

24.11.2020 - 14:04

country flag Corry Verhoeve wrote:

Hallo lieve mensen ik brei heel veel van uw Scandinavische patr nu heeft dit patroon volgens mij een fout in nr m2 regel 14 de 6de steek en de 5 de van het eind van de regel ik ben nu met deze trui bezig en heb het voor mij zelf veranderd verder hij word prachtig met vr gr corry

06.08.2020 - 10:24

country flag Sissel Fjeldvær wrote:

Hei, dette er en flott genser, men det er en feil på mønsteret som jeg syns er ganske betydelig. På mønster 1, er stjerna forskjøvet med e'n maske. Dessverre oppdaget jeg det ikke før jeg begynte på ermene, så mønsteret på bolen må forbli skjevt. Veldig irriterende når man legger så mye arbeid i et strikketøy. Hilsen Sissel

07.12.2015 - 16:54

country flag Liza wrote:

Hva betyr "Strikk M.S.", "M.7", "M.8", etc.?

25.11.2015 - 02:51

DROPS Design answered:

Hej. Det är namn på diagrammen du hittar längst ner på mönstret. Lycka till!

25.11.2015 - 08:21