DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 30.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

DROPS Baby 14-29

Set of knitted jacket with raglan, striped pants with rib and and slippers in DROPS Alpaca. Sizes baby and children from 1 month to 4 years.

DROPS Baby 14-29
Size: 1/3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months (2 – 3/4 years)
Size in cm: 50-56 – 62/68 – 74/80 (86/92 – 98/104)

Materials: DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
Jacket:
150-200-200 (250-250) g colour no 2917, light turquoise

DROPS circular double pointed needles size 4.5mm

DROPS wooden button, no 513, 5-5-6 (6-6) pcs

Trousers:
100-100-100 (100-150) g colour no 0618, beige-mix
50 g for all sizes in the following colours:
no 0302, camel, no 0501, light grey, no 2917, light turquoise
DROPS circular and double pointed needles size 4mm
Elastic: approx 50-60 cm for waist (1.5 cm wide)

Booties:
50-50-100 (100-100) g colour no 2917, light turquoise
DROPS pointed needle size 3.5mm (for rib) and 4mm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 30.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
JACKET:
Knitting tension: 18 sts x 23 rows with 2 threads Alpaca on needles size 4.5mm in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm.

Garter sts (back and forth on needle): Knit all rows.

Buttonhole: Make buttonholes on right front edge from the right side as follows: Knit tog 2nd and 3rd st from edge and make a yo. On next row knit yo as a st. Make buttonholes as follows:
Size 1/3 months: 2, 8, 14 and 20 cm
Size 6/9 months: 2, 8, 15 and 21 cm
Size 12/18 months: 2, 8, 14, 20 and 26 cm
Size 2 years: 2, 9, 16, 23 and 30 cm
Size 3/4 years: 2, 10, 18, 26 and 34 cm
Note! The last buttonhole will be on the neckline.

Decreasing tips (applies to raglan): All dec are made form the right side.
Dec as follows in each transition between sleeve and body pieces (start 3 sts before marking thread): K2 tog, K2 (marker is between these 2 sts), slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso.
___________________________________________________________________

Front and back piece:
Knit the jacket back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Remember buttonholes on right front band – see above.
Cast on 132-138-150 (162-168) sts (includes 5 edge sts towards mid front each side, knitted in garter sts throughout) with 2 threads light turquoise (double thread) and needle size 4.5mm.
Purl 1 row from the wrong side and knit next row as follows:
5 front edge sts in garter sts, *K2, P4*, repeat from *-* and finish with K2 and 5 edge sts in garter sts.
Continue the Rib like this until piece measures 3-3-3 (4-4) cm.
Now continue in stocking sts with 5 edge sts each side in garter sts. At the same time on the first row after the Rib adjust number of sts to 118-128-140 (146-158) sts – do not dec over the 5 edge sts each side. Insert a marker 32-34-38 (39-42) sts in from each side = 54-60-64 (68-74) sts between marking threads on back piece.
When piece measures 5-5-6 (6-6) cm dec 1 st on each side on both markers on every 3-3-3 (4-5) cm a total of 5 times = 98-108-120 (126-138) sts.
When piece measures 19-20-23 (27-30) cm – adjust so that next row is from the wrong side – knit 3 rows garter sts over all sts.
On next row cast off 6-8-8 (8-10) sts each side for armhole (i.e. 3-4-4 (4-5) sts on each side of both marking threads) = 38-42-46 (50-54) sts on back piece and 24-25-29 (30-32) sts on each front piece. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

Sleeve:
Sleeve is knitted round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 30-30-36 (36-36) sts with 2 threads light turquoise.
Knit 1 round and continue in Rib with K2, P4 until piece measures 3-3-3 (4-4) cm.
Now continue in stocking sts at the same time adjusting number of sts to 28-28-30 (30-32) on the first round in stocking sts.
When sleeve measures 8-6-6 (6-6) cm, inc 2 sts mid under arm on every 7-4-3 (3-3.5) cm a total of 2-4-5 (7-7) times = 32-36-40 (44-46) sts.
When piece measures 18-20-21 (26-30) cm purl 1 round, knit 1 round, purl 1 round and knit 1 round casting off 6-8-8 (8-10) sts mid under arm on the last round = 26-28-32 (36-36) sts.
Put the piece aside and knit the other sleeve.

Yoke:
Put sleeves in on the same circular needle as back and front pieces where you cast off for armholes = 138-148-168 (182-190) sts.
Insert a marker in all transitions between sleeves and body pieces (= 4 markers).
Read all of the following section before knitting it:
Knit garter sts over all sts and knit 1 row from the wrong side before starting the dec.

Raglan decreases:
Dec 1 st on each side of all markers (= 8 dec per row) – see Decreasing tips – Dec on every 4th row a total of 7-8-8 (9-10) times and then on every other row 0-0-2 (2-2) times.
Neck: At the same time when piece measures 25-27-31 (41-45) cm put the outermost 8-8-10 (10-10) sts towards mid front each side on a thread for neck. Now cast off to shape the neckline on every other row: 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 2 times.
After all dec for raglan and neck are complete there are 54-56-56 (62-62) sts left on needle and piece measures approx 30-32-36 (41-45) cm.

Assembly: Pick up approx 80 to 96 sts round the neck (incl sts on threads) on circular needle size 4mm with 2 threads of turquoise. Knit 1 row from the wrong side and 1 row from the right side at the same time adjusting number of sts to 54-60-60 (66-66). Continue in Rib as follows (1st round = wrong side): 5 edge sts in garter sts, *P2, K4*, repeat from *-* and finish with P2 and 5 edge sts in garter sts. After 1 cm make a buttonhole over the others on right front edge. Cast off loosely in rib when Rib measures 2 cm.
Sew the openings under the arms. Sew on buttons.



TROUSERS:

Knitting tension: 19 sts x 25 rows with double thread on needles size 4mm in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm.

Rib: *K3, P3*, repeat from *-*

Stripes: see diagrams M.1

Increasing tips: Pick up thread from previous row and knit or purl this as it fits into Rib – i.e. knit the first 3 inc sts, purl the next 3 etc.

Start at the top and knit downwards.
Cast on 84-96-96 (108-108) sts with 2 threads beige-mix and circular needle size 4mm. Knit Rib. After 2 cm start the stripe pattern – see M.1, start at the bottom of chart. When piece measures 10-13-14 (15-16) cm inc 1 st on each side of the middle 3 knitted sts – see Increasing tips – on every other round a total of 12 times = 108-120-120 (132-132) sts. After the last inc piece measures approx 20-23-24 (25-26) cm. On next round cast off 5 sts mid front and mid back and finish each leg separately.

Legs: Put sts from one leg on a thread and sts from the other leg on double pointed needles size 4mm = 49-55-55 (61-61) sts. Knit round (continue pattern as before) and on the first round dec the P4 on inner side of leg to P3 = 48-54-54- (60-60) sts. Continue in Rib and stripe pattern until leg measures 18-21-24 (29-34) cm. Change to beige-mix and knit 6 cm Rib for turn-up. Cast off loosely in Rib.
Knit the other leg in the same way.

Assembly: Sew opening between legs. Fold the upper 2 cm on waist towards the wrong side and attach neatly – leave an opening for the elastic and insert this. Fold the rib at bottom of legs.



BOTTIES:
To fit foot length: 10-11-12 (14-15) cm

Knitting tension: 19 sts x 38 rows with double thread on needles size 4mm in garter sts = 10 x 10 cm.

Garter sts (back and forth on needle): Knit all rows

Rib: *K2, P2*, repeat from *-*.

The bootie is knitted from top down and sewn together mid back afterwards. Loosely cast on 14-16-16 (18-18) sts with 2 threads of light turquoise and needle size 4mm and knit garter sts until piece measures 3-3-3 (4-4) cm. Put sts on a thread and knit a similar piece (= the upper part of bootie). Put the 2 pieces in on the same needle and knit 1 row garter sts over all sts = 28-32-32 (36-36) sts (the opening in the middle of piece = mid front).
Change to needle size 3.5mm and knit next row as follows from the right side: 1 edge st in garter sts, *K2, P2*, repeat from *-* and finish with K2 and 1 edge st in garter sts. Continue the Rib like this until it measures 3.5-4.4.5 (5-5) cm. Now put the outermost 10-11-11 (12-12) sts each side on a thread. Change back to needle size 4mm and knit 4-5-6 (7-8) cm garter sts over the remaining 8-10-10 (12-12) sts mid front. Now dec 1 st each side on every other row a total of 2 times = 4-6-6 (8-8) sts left, cut the thread. Pick up 10-11-13 (15-17) sts on each side of the middle piece and put sts from thread back on needle = 44-50-54 (62-66) sts. Knit 3-3.5-4 (4.5-5) cm garter sts over all sts, at the same time after 1.5-2-2.5 (3-3.5) cm dec as follows on every other row until finished measurements: Cast off 1 st at the beginning and at the end of row and K2 tog on both sides of the middle st = approx 32-38-42 (50-54) sts left. Cast off loosely. Knit another bootie.
Sew seam under foot and mid back – sew in the outer loops of sts in order to make the seam neat.

SOFT TOY: see pattern no 13-34

Diagram

symbols = beige-mix
symbols = light turquoise
symbols = camel
symbols = light grey
symbols = first knit M.1a, then M.1b=78 rows=31 cm
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (31)

country flag Cathy Hansen wrote:

Hei. Hva er garnmengden på buksen når du strikker den i 1 farge ?

02.10.2022 - 14:48

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Cathy, du skal nok bruge 1 nøgle mere i bundfarven, hvis du strikker bukserne ensfarvede :)

03.10.2022 - 15:10

country flag Katharina wrote:

Schon alles verstanden bzw. gefunden... 😉

28.02.2019 - 21:34

country flag Katharina wrote:

Jacke = beidseiteig der Makierung eine Masche abk. ? = einfach zwei Maschen zusammenstricken ? :-)

28.02.2019 - 17:40

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Katharina, für die Raglanabnahmen sollen Sie 1 Masche abnehmen, nicht abketten - siehe Tipp zum Abketten - die deutsche Anleitung wird angepasst. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

01.03.2019 - 09:39

country flag Sophie wrote:

Hallo, ich fange jetzt das Oberteil an. Mein Nadelspiel für die Ärmel 4,5 ist ein klein bisschen dünner als die Rundstricknadel für den Körper. Wenn ich jetzt mit Rundstricknadel Nr 5 weiter stricke, ist der Unterschied dann nicht zu groß (man soll ja Nr 4 nehmen)? Soll ich vielleicht einfach mit der bereits verwendeten Rundstricknadel weiter stricken? Ich bedanke mich im Voraus für die Hilfe. Leider hab ich es nicht bemerkt.

21.10.2018 - 22:32

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sophie, die ganze Jacke wird mit der selben Nadel bzw Nr 4.5 gestrickt, am besten stricken Sie die Passe auch mit einer Nadel Nr 4,5 sonnst werden die Anleitung nicht mehr stimmen (mit größeren Nadeln wird die Maschenprobe nicht mehr stiimmen). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

22.10.2018 - 09:57

country flag Betty Larose wrote:

Pour la réalisation du pantalon, lorsque vous demandez d'augmenter une maille de chaque côté des 3 mailles à l'endroit, 12 fois tous les 2 rangs, je ne comprends absolument pas où je dois augmenter puisque je tricote en côtes 3/3. Après 12 tours d'augmentation, je devrais avoir 24 mailles en plus. Je ne comprends pas. Pouvez-vous me donner plus d'explications ? Merci !

11.12.2016 - 03:01

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Larose, vous augmentez de chaque côté des 3 m end au milieu de l'ouvrage - tricotez les augmentations en côtes (cf AUGMENTATIONS). Augmentez ainsi 12 fois 2 m = 24 augmentations = 108-120-132 m (cf taille). Bon tricot!

12.12.2016 - 09:23

country flag Vibeke wrote:

Hvis jeg velger å strikke denne buksa i Drops Delights (som er et garnalternativ). Hvor mye garn beregner jeg i str 3-4 år da? regner med at man ikke trenger like mye som når man strikker den med striper.

16.11.2015 - 14:29

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Vibeke. Se de her bukser er strikket i dobbelt traad Delight. Jeg ville nok ogsaa tage et nöste mere, naar der strikkes rib, for at vaere sikker. God fornöjelse.

20.11.2015 - 15:48

country flag Katharina wrote:

Hallo Liebes Drops-Team, Wieso beantworten sie meine Frage nicht?

12.11.2015 - 03:50

DROPS Design answered:

Haben Sie die Maschenprobe auch wieder genau eingehalten? Ebenso das Längenmaß? Bislang hatten wir keine Rückmeldungen, dass die Garnmenge nicht passt.

19.11.2015 - 10:11

country flag Katharina wrote:

Hallo, ich habe die Jacke jetzt das zweite mal gestrickt, das erste mal in der Größe 6/9 M, kam ich mit der Mengenangabe. Jetzt allerdings habe ich die Jacke in der Größe 3/4 J gestickt und kam mit den angegebenen 250 g nicht aus. Ich habe ein Käuel Alpaca nachbestellt, was auch nicht reichte, ich habe jetzt den Hals mit einigen R weniger gestrickt. Kann es sein, dass die Mengenangabe 350 hier eher passen würde?

24.08.2015 - 09:31

country flag Hilde Ellingsen wrote:

Tusen takk for svar!

20.02.2015 - 11:00

country flag Hilde Ellingsen wrote:

Hei. I felletips står det at all raglanfellingen skjer fra retten, men det står at det skal felles på hver 4. pinne (?) da blir andre felling fra vrangen, skal jeg da felle på samme måte fra vrangen?

20.02.2015 - 02:09

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Hilde, Nej du skal felle fra retten. Hvis første pind er fra retten kan du fex felle på 1.-5.-9. osv da bliver det for hver 4.pind og altid fra retten. God fornøjelse!

20.02.2015 - 09:36