DROPS Bomull-Lin
DROPS Bomull-Lin
53% Cotton, 47% Linen
from 1.75 £ /50g
DROPS Cotton Viscose
DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale

Love Divine

Tunic with lace pattern knitted in DROPS Bomull-lin and Cotton Viscose or Safran. Crochet necklace in Cotton Viscose.

DROPS 94-9
Tunic:
Size: XS - S – M – L – XL
Materials: DROPS Bomull-Lin
500-550-600-650-700 g colour no.03, Off White mix.

and use: DROPS Cotton Viscose
50 g colour no. 17 light beige (for crochet edges)
or: DROPS Safran
50 g colour no 64 light beige (for crochet edges)

Drops pointed needles size 6 mm or the size needed to obtain the correct gauge.
Drops crochet hook size 4

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Bomull-Lin
DROPS Bomull-Lin
53% Cotton, 47% Linen
from 1.75 £ /50g
DROPS Cotton Viscose
DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting Gauge: 14 sts x 20 rows on needles size 6 mm in lace pattern with Bomull-lin = 10 x 10 cm

Lace pattern: See diagram M1. The diagram is seen from the right side.


Bind off tips (for the neck shape): Bind off inside 1 seam st of stocking sts. All bind off’s are done from the right side. Bind off as follows after 1 seam st: Slip a st as if to knit, K1, psso. Bind off as follows before 1 seam st: K2 tog.

Front piece: Cast on loosely 81-87-93-101-109 sts (inclusive of 1 seam st each side) on needles size 6 mm in Bomull-lin. Knit 2 rows of garter sts, and continue in stocking sts. When the piece measures 5-5-7-9-11 cm knit the next row from the right side as follows: 1 seam st, 3-0-3-1-5 sts of stocking sts, M.1A (=6 sts), M.1B on the following 60-72-72-84-84 sts, M.1C (= 7sts), 3-0-3-1-5 sts of stocking sts and 1 seam st. Continue this pattern. At the same time when the piece measures 6-6-8-10-12 cm bind off 1 st each side on every 5th row a total of 15 times = 51-57-63-71-79 sts – knit sts not fitting into pattern in stocking sts. Make sure the number of sts remain constant, i.e. make as many yo's as you do sts knitted together. When the piece measures 52-53-55-57-60 inc. 1 st each side on every 3 -3.5-3.5-4-4 cm a total of 4-4-4-3-3 times = 59-65-71-77-85 sts – knit the new sts in stocking sts. When the piece measures 67-69-71-73-75 cm bind off for armhole on every other row as follows: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 0-1-2-3-4 times and 1 st 2-2-2-2-4 times- remember to knit sts not fitting into pattern in stocking st and to keep the number of sts in pattern constant, i.e. make as many yo's as you do sts knitted together. NB: At the same time when binding off for armhole finish 1 repeat in the vertical length of the lace pattern and continue in stocking sts until finished measurements (this means the repeat should be finished at least 1 cm before starting the neck shaping). At the same time when the piece measures 73-76-78-80-82 cm bind off the centre 3 sts for the neck. Continue to bind off 1 st on neckline on every other row – see bind off tips: a total of 8-9-9-10-10 times = 15-15-16-16-16 sts left for shoulder. Bind off remaining sts when the piece measures 85-88-91-94-97 cm.

Back piece: Cast on and knit as front piece and continue until the piece measures 82-85-88-91-94 cm (remember to finish pattern after a full repeat and continue in stocking sts as for the front). Bind off the centre 17-19-19-21-21 sts for neck. Bind off 1 st on next row on neckline – see bind off tips = 15-15-16-16-16 sts left on each shoulder. Bind off remaining sts when the piece measures 85-88-91-94-97 cm.

Sleeves: Cast on loosely 43-45-45-48-50 sts (inclusive of 1 seam st each side) on needles size 6 mm with Bomull-Lin. Knit 4 rows of garter sts at the same time dec 4-4-4-5-5 sts evenly distributed on the last row = 39-41-41-43-45 sts. Knit next row from the right side as follows: 1 seam st, 0-1-1-2-3 sts of stocking sts, M.1A (=6 sts), M.1B over the next 24 sts, M.1C (= 7 sts), 0-1-1-2-3 sts of stocking st and 1 seam st. Continue this pattern. At the same time when piece measures 7 cm inc. 1 st each side on every 11-8-4.5-3.5-3 cm a total of 3-4-6-7-8 times = 45-49-53-57-61 sts – knit the new sts in stocking sts. When 10 cm left until finished measurements discontinue the pattern after a full repeat and finish the sleeve in stocking sts. At the same time when the piece measures 33-33-31-31-31 cm bind off for sleeve cap on every other row as follows: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1-2-2-2-3 times and 1 sts 3-3-3-4-4 times. Continue to bind off 2 sts each side until the piece measures 40-41-41-41-42 cm. Then bind off 3 sts each side 1 time and bind off remaining sts when the piece measures 41-42-42-42-43 cm.

Assembly: Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in the sleeves. Sew the side and the sleeve seam inside the seam st.

Crochet edge: At last crochet an edge around the neck, around the bottom of the sleeves and along the bottom edge of the tunic. Crochet on hook size 4 with Cotton viscose or Safran as follows: 1 dc in the 1st st, *7 ch, skip 2 sts, 1 dc in the next st*, repeat from *-* and finish with 7 ch and 1 sl st in the 1st dc from beginning of round. NB: The edge should be nice and even and not wavy.

Necklace:
Length: Necklace approx 170 cm
Materials: Cotton Viscose. 50 g colour no 17, off white.
Or DROPS Safran 50 g colour no 18, off white.

Drops crochet hook size 4.

Chain: Crochet ch’s on hook size 4 with 1 thread of Cotton Viscose or Safran until the chain measures 182 cm, cut and fasten the thread. Knot the chain tog to a loop, leaving approx 6-8 cm each end.
Now crochet 11 bubbles as follows: Crochet on hook size 4 with 2 threads of Cotton Viscose. Crochet 4 ch (= 1 ch + 1 tr), continue to crochet 8 tr into the 1st crochet ch (= 9 tr), turn the piece. Crochet 3 ch (= 1 tr), continue as follows: 1 tr into each of the next 8 tr from previous row, but crochet these tr’s tog. - this means crochet 1 tr into the 1st tr but wait with the last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), crochet 1 tr into the next tr, but again wait with the last pull through (= 3 sts on hook). Continue like this until all 9 tr (including the tr made out of 3 ch) are crochet = 9 st on hook., now pull the last yrh from the last tr through all sts on hook.
Cut the thread and sew the bubbles evenly distributed along the chain. (Each bubble has an opening at one side, sew this side to the chain inside, in addition sew a few extra sts into the chain to keep the bubble in place).

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = 1 YO
symbols = K2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (32)

country flag Cornelia wrote:

Hello, please kindly explain the following: “At the same time when the piece measures 6-6-8-10-12 cm bind off 1 st each side on every 5th row a total of 15 times = 51-57-63-71-79 sts –Make sure the number of sts remain constant, i.e. make as many yo\'s as you do sts knitted together. ” What do you mean by “make sure the number of sts remain constant”, when you need to decrease in sides? Thank you

21.02.2024 - 21:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Cornelia, when you decrease in the lace pattern work the stitches that cannot fit the lace pattern anymore in stocking stitch to avoid extra decease/increase. Happy knitting!

22.02.2024 - 09:21

country flag Catarina Samuelsson wrote:

Jag får inte ihop mönstret.. Om jag sätter markörer enlig beskrivningen, första efter 6 m (kantmaska + 5), andra efter M1A=6 m, därefter 8 markörer med 12 maskor mellan varje (12 * 7 över M1B = 84 maskor), och en efter M1C (7 m) så borde det ju följa mönstret. Men redan efter första M1A stämmer det inte.. M1A skall enligt mönstret bestå av 6 maskor totalt = 1 räta, ett omslag, två maskor ihop och slutligen 3m. Men jag har bara 2 m kvar efter att jag följt M1A.

01.02.2024 - 17:27

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Catarina. Vi skal hjelpe deg så godt vi kan, men kan du opplyse hvilken str. du strikker? mvh DROPS Design

12.02.2024 - 10:33

country flag Milka wrote:

Beste. Ik ben beginner in breien dus ik begrijp nog niet alles. In deze patroon direct van begin staat er beschrijving welke ik echt niet begrijpt. " Brei bij een hoogte .......1 kantst, 3-0-3-1-5 tricotst,"wat betekent die cijfers 3-0-3-1-5??????

22.08.2021 - 20:42

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Milka,

Het eerste cijfer staat voor de kleinste maat, het tweede voor de daaropvolgende maat, enzovoort.

03.09.2021 - 10:23

country flag Ina Veldhoen wrote:

Ik krijg het telpatroon niet uit geprint. De hele omschrijving wel maar niet het telpatroon. Nu moet ik nog het tablet gebruiken en dat vind ik lastig.

15.05.2021 - 16:45

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Ina,

Dat is inderdaad een gedoe. Het hele patroon kan uitgeprint worden door op de knop 'Afdrukken' te klikken onder de materialenlijst en vervolgens voor 'Patroon' te kiezen. In het pop-up scherm dat vervolgens tevoorschijn komt, klik je rechts boven op 'Het patroon afdrukken', waarna het patroon naar je printer wordt gestuurd. Nu kan alles worden afgedrukt, inclusief de maattekening en het telpatroon.

19.05.2021 - 10:08

Sandra Forbes wrote:

Row 19 don’t work out help

10.05.2018 - 11:21

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Forbes, on row 19 work: K2 tog, YO, K3 (= M.1A), then *K5, YO, slip 1 as if to K, K2 tog, psso, K4* (= M.1B) repeat from *-* and finish with K5, YO, slip 1 as if to K, K1, psso (= M.1C). Happy knitting!

11.05.2018 - 07:37

Sandra Forbes wrote:

Love divine # 94-9 Row 9 and row 19 don’t work out

10.05.2018 - 00:36

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Forbes, on row 9, work the last st in M.1A together with the first 2 sts in M.1B (= YO replaces last st in M.1A and slip the last st in M.1A; K2tog the first 2 sts in M.1B and psso). Same when you repeat M.1B: work the last st in M.1B tog with the first 2 sts in next M.1B (M.1C). Happy knitting!

10.05.2018 - 09:18

country flag Sandra Forbes wrote:

Row 9 does not work out help

10.05.2018 - 00:34

country flag Kattis Holm wrote:

Hej, hur kan jag se måtten på de olika storlekarna på detta mönster? Så jag vet att jag väljer rätt storkek att sticka efter. Mvh Kattis Holm

16.02.2017 - 18:03

DROPS Design answered:

Hej. Det finns en mått-skiss längst ner på alla våra mönster där du kan se måtten i cm i de olika storlekarna. Lycka till!

20.02.2017 - 14:02

country flag PIFFERO wrote:

Comment se fait-il qu'il faille pour ma taille M, augmenter la manche jusqu'à 34cm de hauteur totale,soit (7cm +27cm aug = des 6 fois tous les 4,5 cm)alors qu'il est noté de faire les dim. de la manche à 31cm de hauteur totale; impossible car les aug.ne sont pas terminées ? MERCI

04.06.2016 - 18:26

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Piffero, on augmente à 7 cm et on répète encore 5 fois ces augmentations tous les 4.5 (soit = à 11,5 - 16 - 20.5 - 25 - 29.5 cm) - on augmenté 6 fois au total. On rabat pour l'arrondi à 32 cm (et non 31 cm hauteur corrigée dans les explications). Bon tricot!

06.06.2016 - 09:24

country flag Malou wrote:

St= stolpe resp 8 stolpar, se virkskolan där får du se hur du ska göra. Där finns beskrivning på både halv och dubbelstolpe, men det är stolpe du ska titta på. Lycka till!

23.11.2007 - 12:25