Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
= off white (off white) sweater | |
= mustard (blue) sweater | |
= K - socks | |
= P - socks |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
DROPS 52-10 |
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DROPS Iceland-inspired child's sweater and socks in Karisma Superwash
DROPS 52-10 |
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Gauge: 22 sts and 30 rows on larger needle in pattern = 10 x 10 cm Border: 2.5 cm stockinette stitch with mustard (blue heather), change to natural (natural) and knit 1 row stockinette stitch, purl 1 row (for the folding edge), change back to mustard (blue heather) and knit 2.5 cm stockinette stitch. Rib: *knit 1, purl 1*, repeat from * - *. Pattern: See chart (1 chart = 1 repeat). The pattern is shown from the right side and is knit entirely in stockinette stitch. All charts are identical for all sizes. Body: Knit the sweater in the round on circular needles and cut steeks for armholes and neck split. Cast on 176-192-208 (216-224-232) sts with mustard (blue heather) on smaller circular needles and knit rib for 4-4-4 (5-5-5) cm. Change to larger circular needles and knit Pattern 4 once, then repeat Pattern 1 until the work measures approximately 29-32-35 (36-38-39) cm [11-3/8" - 12-5/8" - 13.75" (14-1/8" - 14-7/8" - 15.75") - adjust for complete pattern. After Pattern 1 knit Pattern 3 once, then repeat Pattern 2 to finished dimensions. At the same time, when the work measures 29-31-34 (35-36-38) cm [11-3/8" - 12.25" - 13-3/8" (13.75" - 14-1/8" - 15.75") inc 4 sts on either side (at the marker and after 88-96-104 (108-112-116) sts). These sts are for the steeks and are not knitted into the pattern. When the work measures 32-35-38 (39-41-42) cm bind off the center 10 sts in the front for the neck split. On the next row cast on 5 new sts over the bound-off sts - these sts are for the steek and are not knitted into the pattern. When the work measures 40-43-48 (49-51-54) cm bind off the center front 18-18-20 (20-22-22) sts + 5 steek sts for the neck and knit the rest back and forth back and forth on the needles. Bind off at each neck edge every other row: 2 sts 1 time, 1 st 2 times. At the same time, when the work measures 43-46-51 (53-55-58) cm, bind off the center back 32-32-34 (34-36-36) sts for the neck. Then bind off 2 sts at each back neck edge on the next row. Bind off all sts when the work measures approximately 45-48-53 (55-57-60) cm [ 17.75" - 18-7/8" - 20-7/8" (21-5/8" - 22.5" - 23-5/8") - adjust for complete pattern. Sleeves: Cast on 38-38-40 (42-44-46) sts on smaller double pointed needles with mustard (blue heather); join and place a marker at the join. Knit rib for 3-4-4 (4-4-4) cm and inc 4-6-8 (6-6-4) sts evenly distributed on the last row = 42-44-48 (48-50-50) sts. Change to larger double pointed needles and knit Pattern 4 once, then repeat Pattern 1 until the work measures 21-24-28 (32-36-39) cm. At the same time, after the rib, inc 1 st each side of marker 14-16-18 (20-21-24) times: Sizes 3/4 + 5/6 years: alternately every 3rd and 4th row Sizes 7/8 + 9/10 + 13/14 years: every 4th row Size 11/12 years: alternately every 4th and 5th row = 70-76-84 (88-92-98) sts. After Pattern 1 knit Pattern 3 once, then repeat Pattern 2 to finished dimensions. When the work measures 23-26-30 (34-38-41) cm [9" - 10.25" - 11.75" (13-3/8" - 14-7/8" - 16-1/8") put 2 sts each side of marker on a stitch holder and knit the rest back and forth on the needles. Then put 5-6-6 (7-7-7) sts on a stitch holder for sleeve caps on either side every other row 4 times. The work measures approximately 26-29-33 (37-41-44) cm. Put all sts back on the same needle and knit 2 cm reverse stockinette stitch in the round for a seam allowance over the cut edge on the body. Assembly: Sew a marker thread in the center of the steek sts on either side and at the center front. Sew two machine seams around the marker thread, 1st seam = 1/2 stitch from the marker thread, 2nd seam = 1/2 stitch from first seam. Cut steeks for armholes and split. Sew shoulder seams. Pick up approximately 20-30 sts along the left side of the split on smaller needles with mustard (blue heather) and knit border. Repeat along the right side of the split. Fold the edges over against the wrong side and sew. Sew the split together at the bottom from the right side. Pick up approximately 80-94 sts around the neck and over the split on smaller needles with mustard (blue heather) and knit border. Fold the edge over against the wrong side and sew. Sew the sleeves to the body from the right side as follows: Sew alternately a stitch in the last row on the sleeve before the seam allowance and a stitch on the body after the machine seam. Turn the sweater inside out and sew the seam allowance from the sleeve over the cut edge on the body by hand. Sew on the hooks. SOCKS: Sizes: 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 (9/10 - 11/12 - 13/14) years footlength: 17 - 19 - 21 (22 - 23 -25) cm Materials: DROPS KARISMA SUPERWASH from Garnstudio 150-150-150 (200-200-200) g col. 01, natural white DROPS 3 mm and 3.5 mm double pointed needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge. Gauge: 22 sts and 30 rows on larger needle in pattern = 10 x 10 cm Pattern: See charts (1 chart = 1 repeat). The pattern is shown from the right side and is knit in the round. All charts are identical for all sizes. Rib: *knit 1, purl 1*, repeat from * - *. Socks: Cast on 44-46-48 (50-52-52) sts on smaller needles; join and place a marker at the join (this is the center back of the sock). Knit rib for 5 cm. Change to larger needles and knit 1 row stockinette stitch, increasing 4-6-4 (6-4-4) sts evenly distributed on the row = 48-52-52 (56-56-56) sts. Then establish the pattern as follows: knit 3-5-5 (7-7-7) sts of Pattern 5, Pattern 6, 3-5-5 (7-7-7) sts of Pattern 7, 1 st at the center of the back knit in stockinette stitch on all rows until the work measures 24-24-28 (27-30-32) cm [9.5" - 9.5" - 11" (10-5/8" - 11.75" - 12-5/8"). Then begin shaping the leg: Dec 1 st on each side of the stockinette stitch at the center back every 4th row: 4-5-4 (6-5-5) times = 40-42-44 (44-46-46) sts. Make the decreases as follows: Before the center stitch: slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over. After the center stitch: K 2 tog. When the work measures 30-32-34 (36-38-40) cm, put the uppermost 22-24-26 (26-28-28) on a stitch holder and knit the heel in stockinette stitch: 5-5-5 (6-6-6) cm stockinette stitch back and forth over the center 18 sts in the back. Turn the heel: 1st row (right side): Knit 10 sts, K 2 tog into back of stitch, knit 1, turn the work. 2nd row (wrong side): slip 1, purl 8, purl 2 tog, purl 1, turn the work. 3rd row: slip 1, knit 7, K 2 tog into back of stitch, knit 1, turn the work. 4th row: slip 1, purl 6, purl 2 tog, purl 1, turn the work. 5th row: slip 1, knit 5 sts, K 2 tog into back of stitch, knit 1, turn the work. 6th row: slip 1, purl 4, purl 2 tog, purl 1, turn the work. 7th row: K 2 tog, knit 3 sts, K 2 tog into back of stitch = 10 sts on needle. Now pick up 11-11-11 (13-13-13) sts on either side of the heel and put all sts evenly distributed on 4 needles = 54-56-58 (62-64-64) sts. Then dec 1 st each side of the uppermost 22-24-26 (26-28-28) sts every other row: 6-6-5 (7-7-7) times = 42-44-48 (48-50-50) sts. When the foot measures 13-15-16 (17-18-20) cm from the start of the heel turning, shape the toe. Attach a marker on either side of the foot and dec 1 st on either side of the markers (4 decreases per row in all) 8-8-10 (10-10-10) times alternately every row and every other row = 10-12-8 (8-10-10) sts. Pull the yarn doubled through the last sts and sew together. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (5)
Mary Suessmann wrote:
I am knitting size 3/4 of pattern 52-10. Is there a video that can help me with the sleeve to “put 5 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve caps on either side every other row 4 times.” As it says this is for the sleeve cap, do I do this at the top of the sleeve, 5 stitches on either side of the middle of the row?
26.10.2021 - 23:31DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mary, unfortunately we do not have a video of this method. You are putting these stitches on a holder (or on a thread) instead of casting them off to frorm the sleeve cap, so later, when the sleeve cap is finshed, you can knit all of them at once. You start it where you would start casting off the stitches for sleeve cal, in the middle of the undersleeve. Happy stitching!
28.10.2021 - 11:50Di Shakspeare wrote:
You ask for suggestions for a name for this pattern - I have just knitted this for my 6year old grandson and he loves it. Will hardly take it off! He has suggested two names and hopes you will decide to have one of them. 'NORS' because it is similar to a Nordic pattern OR 'FERGUS' as he is called Fergus which is a very Scottish name.
22.04.2017 - 21:11Kleinert-Graupe wrote:
Wo gib es die Ösen zu kaufen?
05.11.2016 - 19:32DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Kleinert-Graupe, diese Ösen haben wir leider keine mehr, aber gerne kann Ihnen sicher Ihr DROPS Laden damit helfen.
07.11.2016 - 09:16DROPS Design NL wrote:
Hoi Linda. Wat zou je graag willen weten? Je meerdert de steken zoals beschreven en brei deze in tricotst. Bij het afwerken worden deze steken doorgeknipt. Ik heb een beschrijving voor deze werkwijze, maar alleen in een document. Zou je deze graag willen ontvangen, stuur me dan een mail. Gr. Tine
29.03.2009 - 14:37Linda wrote:
Meerder tegelijkertijd bij een hoogte van 29-31-34 (35-36-38) cm 4 st aan weerskanten voor de armsgaten (deze st worden bij het afwerken opengeknipt, en maken zodoende geen deel uit van het motief). Het is mijn eerste keer dat ik met een rondbreinaald een trui brei. Kun je mij raad geven over die steken die je meerdert aan de mouwkant en die steken daarna knipt. Dank je vriendelijk, Linda
24.03.2009 - 05:32